Outdoor Adventure USA

Sorry, I misunderstood, thought you confirmed voltage at the center of the distro cap.

SP Jon M3 wrote:Sorry, I misunderstood, thought you confirmed voltage at the center of the distro cap.

Hi Jon-

I did read 12.4 volts at the distro cap but apparently that isn't anywhere near what is necessary to create a spark. I have been told that the coil/igniter create voltage in the 40,000 range. I don't really have a grasp on the technology, I only know that what once worked a week ago no longer does. I am buying an igniter and coil tonight, we'll see how that works out.

gon2srf wrote:I did read 12.4 volts at the distro cap but apparently that isn't anywhere near what is necessary to create a spark. I have been told that the coil/igniter create voltage in the 40,000 range. I don't really have a grasp on the technology, I only know that what once worked a week ago no longer does. I am buying an igniter and coil tonight, we'll see how that works out.

True - the coil /ignitor should put out north of 40K volts (some are 60-70K) to fire the plugs. 12.4v is the car's normal circuit voltage (and that is low also - should be about 12.6 at the battery)...but you won't measure the higher voltage until it actually fires..(and don't use a standard voltmeter)

cruiserlarry wrote:

gon2srf wrote:I did read 12.4 volts at the distro cap but apparently that isn't anywhere near what is necessary to create a spark. I have been told that the coil/igniter create voltage in the 40,000 range. I don't really have a grasp on the technology, I only know that what once worked a week ago no longer does. I am buying an igniter and coil tonight, we'll see how that works out.

True - the coil /ignitor should put out north of 40K volts (some are 60-70K) to fire the plugs. 12.4v is the car's normal circuit voltage (and that is low also - should be about 12.6 at the battery)...but you won't measure the higher voltage until it actually fires..(and don't use a standard voltmeter)

Well the battery was fully charged to begin with but after hundreds of tests we ran it down a bit.

Last night I bought the Accel coil and GM igniter module for a retro fit even though I felt sure there was nothing faulty with my igniter or coil. I once again did all the prerequisite checks on my igniter and coil, perfect. Re checked the air gap on the electronic points. I rechecked the connectors to the distributor and the igniter and followed the harness from the igniter up to a connector I have on the air intake. It's the only thing I could think of that might be shorting out the system. I removed the connector and started the motor, it fired right up. Yes....... It sounds perfect then a second later it quits. So I have found the culprit but now it appears I am not getting air or it cuts off fuel?. Anyone know what this little box does. Is it OEM? The truck was previously owned by the owner of TLC so it has some aftermarket work done to it and the whole intake system looks aftermarket. By the way this whole system was functional previous to the new motor install.

To summarize:

If the connector to the air box is connected I get no spark to the distributor.

If is disconnected it will start up for a second and quit.

See pictures below:

Close up connector removed Pulled back shot with connector connected

MAF sensor?
Not familiar with Yota's.

xtatik wrote:MAF sensor?
Not familiar with Yota's.

I'm sure you are right, I looked up pictures of MAF's and that is what it look like? Thanks.

xtatik wrote:MAF sensor?

x2.. Do not remove those two screws, you will damage the internal connection. Ask me how I know..

sdnative wrote:

xtatik wrote:MAF sensor?

x2.. Do not remove those two screws, you will damage the internal connection. Ask me how I know..

Interesting comment as I recall when I first started to tear down the motor I removed those screws and in fact may have damaged it. That really sucks, I'll read the FSM to see how I can verify if it is working properly but it is propably too late.

Thank you Eric.

That is the Mass Air Flow sensor...if it's damaged, car should start but not run well or at all after it fires up. Get ready for a big bill - that's a Toyota OEM part, and you should not substitute with anything else. Maybe find used / rebuilt on line....