Outdoor Adventure USA

Issue: I have a proper voltage reading at the coil and to distributor but am not receiving voltage at plug wire ends.

I have searched and read several threads on this subject and cannot figure out what the issue is. I have just installed a new(er) to me motor. Every single connection has been checked and rechecked.

I have tested voltage at the coil and proper resistance per the FSM. I removed the dist. cap and with the coil wire connected I have voltage under the cap at the spring loaded contact point. The spring is working properly. I have new wires and have exchanged dist. caps and rotors and have the same result.

I tighten down the dist. cap and turn over the motor and there is no spark at end of the plug wire and or the plugs.

I am obviously missing something very simple but i just do not understand how I can have voltage at the distributor yet it won't distribute the current through the plug wires and the spark plugs?

I have also tested the rotors for unusual resistance.

Updated Wednesday morning. Replace distributor magnet sub-assembly. Still no spark, yikes.

Any input would be appreciated, thanks.

Have you checked to make sure that the rotor is actually spinning? Try removing the distributor cap, then watch the rotor while someone cranks the engine over. Maybe there's a problem with the distributor shaft in the new-to-you engine? or maybe the timing of the shaft is off, so when the coil fires, the rotor isn't making contact with one of the pins that go to the spark plug wires.

All just a guess, but seems like its failing somewhere between the distributor cap and the rotor.

SP Jon M3 wrote:Have you checked to make sure that the rotor is actually spinning? Try removing the distributor cap, then watch the rotor while someone cranks the engine over. Maybe there's a problem with the distributor shaft in the new-to-you engine? or maybe the timing of the shaft is off, so when the coil fires, the rotor isn't making contact with one of the pins that go to the spark plug wires.

All just a guess, but seems like its failing somewhere between the distributor cap and the rotor.

Thanks Jon but yes I did that, spins properly. Geez this is frustrating, I worked till 3:00 in morning for 3 days getting this baby ready to start.

I was going to suggest checking that the rotor is turning as well... (I'd check continuity of the rotor just to make sure it isn't a defective part)

Did you change the coil ? While it's a slim possibility, it is possible the coil has voltage, but not enough current (amperage) to fire across the plug gap - especially if it's very weak. Sometimes electronics test OK when static, but don't work under load...(this can also be an igniter problem...)

Good Luck...

cruiserlarry wrote:I was going to suggest checking that the rotor is turning as well... (I'd check continuity of the rotor just to make sure it isn't a defective part)

Did you change the coil ? While it's a slim possibility, it is possible the coil has voltage, but not enough current (amperage) to fire across the plug gap - especially if it's very weak. Sometimes electronics test OK when static, but don't work under load...(this can also be an igniter problem...)

Good Luck...

Thanks Larry. The truck ran fine before I pulled the motor (except for the loud rod bearing slap:lol: ) and I ran continuity checks on both rotors as well as each plug receptacle on both caps. I also checked the ignitor per the FSM but it's just a simple voltage check. After reading the post below I believe I may have some type of ground issue or possibly a distributor issue although all off the grounds; starter to frame, block to firewall, t-case to frame, battery ground to fender are all cleaned and connected properly. I have another distributor and will try that this morning and I'll replace the coil and igniter if that fails.

Below is a post from MUD. Care to answer this gentleman's question.

FJ62 questions: distributor and coil/igniter assy
BACKGROUND:
A friend’s 89 FJ62 Landcruiser was not starting. FJ62’s are fuel injected, not to be confused with carbureted FJ60’s. I go over to help diagnose the problem; I figure that it will take less than an hour because I have trouble shooted this in the past. I check the following:
1. Fuel pressure at the FPR and the fuel filter are good, fuel is spirting out when loosened.
2. I get under the truck near the gas tank and hear the fuel pump on.
3. I see that the check engine light comes on when in acc position indicating a properly function EFI Control Unit (ECU computer located near glovebox.)
4. I check the EFI Main Relay on the passenger side fender.
5. I check the Circuit Opening Relay (passenger kick panel.)
6. I confirm that the coil/igniter is getting 12V.
7. I brought a spare ECU, EFI Main relay, Circuit Opening Relay, and Coil/Igniter Assembly and use them and still no spark to plugs.
8. I open up distributor and all contacts look good, all is clean.

Nothing seems to work and I confirm that the engine is getting fuel but not spark. I tell my friend that it is probably the distributor and that it’s outside my ability to troubleshoot in one night.

He takes it to the dealer and over three days they trace it to a subassembly inside the distributor. The part replaced was the contacts or magnet assembly that connects to the three wires coming out of the distributor. A total of about 6 screws hold in the parts on the bottom of the inside of the distributor.

QUESTION:
What does this subassembly inside the distributor do? And while we are on this topic can someone explain what the igniter does? I know that the coil and igniter assembly takes 12 VDC and converts it to ~40,000 VDC in order to get a nice spark to ignite the fuel in the cylinders. I think the coil is like a small transformer and ramps up the voltage. This is my basic understanding and I would like to know more from the cruiser crowd about the distributor and the coil/igniter.

-Randy


Picture of parts in question:

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j251/ ... nition.gif

Scott,

Is does the Fj62 have an electronic ignition? If it's point-based then your point gap may be wrong. I haven't looked at an old Toyota distrributor before.

OLLIE wrote:Scott,

Is does the Fj62 have an electronic ignition? If it's point-based then your point gap may be wrong. I haven't looked at an old Toyota distrributor before.

I wish, would have had this figured out long ago. Electronic ignition: I replace the magnetic subassembly this morning, still no spark.

Thanks man. BTW, how's that Frogeye dude?

gon2srf wrote:

SP Jon M3 wrote:Have you checked to make sure that the rotor is actually spinning? Try removing the distributor cap, then watch the rotor while someone cranks the engine over. Maybe there's a problem with the distributor shaft in the new-to-you engine? or maybe the timing of the shaft is off, so when the coil fires, the rotor isn't making contact with one of the pins that go to the spark plug wires.

All just a guess, but seems like its failing somewhere between the distributor cap and the rotor.

Thanks Jon but yes I did that, spins properly. Geez this is frustrating, I worked till 3:00 in morning for 3 days getting this baby ready to start.

Not sure my post was clear, have you also confirmed that the timing is right in the distributor? If the motor was rebuilt, and they pulled the distributor out of the engine, it might be off by one or several teeth when it was rebuilt. Therefore the rotor would not line up with the points on the underside of the cap when the coil fires.

Jon
I think you may have the answer. Sounds like the distributor needs to be pulled and dropped again into the correct spot.

Guys there are no points and yes the distrbutor is installed correctly. Top dead center on cylinder 1 / rotor lines up with plug wire 1. Although I have a 12.4 volt reading at the coil I do not have spark at the high voltage wire so I am pretty sure the issue lies before the distributor such as the coil, igniter or the ground for either. As Larry pointed out the voltage may seem fine under static cirmcumstances yet under load it may not. The problem is solving the issue without buying $300.00 worth of coil and igniter only to find out that is not the issue.

Anyone have a spare ignitor and coil I can borrower??