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Not much but...
Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 12:05 pm
by smslavin
Re: Not much but...
Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 4:51 pm
by gon2srf
Nice pics Sean. Don't know where you been hiding but we just head several days of head high South swell.

Re: Not much but...
Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 9:38 pm
by smslavin
it's been lake pacific down here for weeks. quite irritating. doubly so since i haven't been traveling that much the past month. i'm sure that as soon as i'm told i've got to leave, some giant south swell will come in to close the summer. i'm lucky like that.
Re: Not much but...
Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 1:44 pm
by ssc
I know what you mean. I have my trip set up for Northshore in Dec. I go for the surfing competition. The pipeline is my favorite. Some years are great and then some you are lucky to get 4 ft. Seen 40 ft on good times and 2ft when not so good.
Sean, are you familiar with the work of Clark Little? I am impressed with his pictures.
http://www.clarklittlephotography.com/
Cheers, Steve
Re: Not much but...
Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 5:10 pm
by smslavin
yea, i've gotten the chance to meet clark a couple of times. i've also seen him work the shore break at waimea. i've put myself in some crazy situations but that guy is off the charts. we almost moved there so i could be more involved but we couldn't justify the cost, or risk, with the girls. i do miss it something fierce though. there's something about being in the water there that really makes you feel alive. it pushes your limits and makes you humble all at the same time.
i had a day swimming with the camera at backdoor. surf was in the 15-18' range and it was one of the few moments i've had in the water where i actually didn't think i was going to make it back out. bec was on the beach that day with dillen, who was only about a year old, so i didn't have a choice, i had to make it back out.
haven't been to oahu in almost 7 years. vacations have been a bit cost prohibitive lately. with all the traveling i've been doing this year for work, i've got miles to burn. i think we're going to try and make it this winter. not sure if we'll be there for the circus, although i would love it. lots of good memories there with dillen when she was little. be nice to share them with the other 2.
where do you stay? we used to rent a place at
keiki. walking distance to waimea, groceries and ehukai.
i'll try to dig out some old pics from the archives. hopefully i have scans of the slides...
Re: Not much but...
Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:04 pm
by ssc
Sean, we stay at the Turtle Bay Resort. The waves scare me, hence why they intrigue me. I stay out of the water when there are waves over a couple of feet. Had a bad experience at Huntington Beach back in the 70's. Was body surfing in some large waves. Got nailed by a wave and slammed head first into the sand and felt my body tingle from neck to toes. I thought my neck was going to snap and then rolled around by the wave and had a hard time finding which way was up. So I admire your skills--but be careful.
Cheers, Steve
Re: Not much but...
Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 9:25 pm
by smslavin
ssc wrote:I admire your skills--but be careful.
Thanks Steve. I'm careful but I kinda thrive on the adrenaline rush and the raw power that envelopes you. Free diving and body surfing helps keep me in shape.
Sorry to hear about your incident. I know a few people that weren't so lucky.