Outdoor Adventure USA

Introduction to "Map and Compass"

NET UPDATE FOR SECOND SESSION Map & Compass II
The net this week will be a continuation of the map & compass Net of last week. There was just too much to cover in the time we have for the nets.
Post numbers #7, #8, #9, and #10 have been added as new material for this net.

Last week Map & Compass I
This week we plan to discuss the basics of Map & Compass. We rely so heavily on electronic devise and maps – we can all use a review of the basics. With approximately 1-1.5 hours we have to discuss this and with a handful of graphics we can only cover enough to make you dangerous - dangerous to yourself and others if you attempt an expedition size adventure with just this information under your belt. You need practical exercise which a net cannot provide.

Disclaimer: Perfect practice makes perfect and you will be, by no means, be ready for a trip to "dead reckon" across a swamp with a AAA road map! That would be a recipe for disaster so practice and build your skills before you take a potential life threatening jaunt into the wilderness. When everything is going well, life with a map and compass can be a great thing but when things are not going so well the minimum downfall will be a little more walking or driving but at its worst not knowing where you are or how to get yourself "found" can lead to serious injury and in some cases your death or the same for others in your party. We hear about it all the time, do not bite off more than you can chew. All the OAUSA nets with their cautionary tips usually come from hard lessons learned out in the field and are not worth squat if you become over confident and fail to heed the warnings others have gone to great lengths to provide you.
Reference Material:
· US Army Field Manual 3-25.26 "Map Reading and Land Navigation"
· REI Outdoor Training: http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/ ... asics.html

Before we get too far into the map and compass part, here is a product, shopping destination: 5.11 Tactical

Finally made it there just before the buying season started and wanted to share my pleasant experience with OAUSA. Well merchandised, helpful employees and quality gear. Yes, I would have to agree, pricey, but in most cases you will get what you pay for and among some of the other big names in gear this is in the "pro-sumer" range of good, long lasting, gear.

FYI, the store has other brands like Adventure Medical Kits, Mountain House, NDur (endure), SOL (Survive Outdoors Longer), QuickClot, Source and Benchmade to name a few. So, this is not just a 5.11 clearinghouse, it can be a serious place to look, feel and judge for yourself whether or not the gear is going to be worthy of your hard earned cash.

Double and proper stitching makes a difference over time and use. 85% of their product line found at this shop. Willing to workout special orders. Open 7 days a week.

The Map

1. The maps we will discuss are topographical maps and that is to say, they are a graphic illustration of a portion of the earth's surface, drawn to scale, as seen from above. Colors, symbols and labels help to further define features found on the ground.

2. Scale:
A. Small. The standard small-scale map is 1:1,000,000. This map covers a very large land area at the expense of detail.
B. Medium. Maps with scales larger than 1:1,000,000 but smaller than 1:75,000 contain a moderate amount of detail. Terrain analysis is best done with a large-scale map; a standard medium-scale map is 1:250,000 but maps of 1:100,000 are also common.
C. Large. Maps with scales of 1:75,000 and larger are the maps most useful to the hike/backpacker. The standard large-scale map is 1:50,000; however, many areas have been mapped at a scale of 1:25,000. USGS maps, considered to be within the "large" map scale, reference a 7.5 degree quadrangle which is 1:24,000 and very common for the average hiker and backpacker.

3. Topographic Map Symbols: Used to represent items on the ground that may not show up well when drawn to scale on the map.

4. Colors Use on a Map:
A. Black: Manmade objects
B. Red-Brown: ID cultural features, relief, non-surveyed spot elevation, contour lines on a red-light readable map.
C. Blue: Water.
D. Green: Vegetation.
E. Brown: Contour lines with the dark being index contour lines.
F. Red (red or other colored lens flashlight users beware of what you can and cannot see)
G. Other: Special information and are usually explained in the marginal information.

5. Major Terrain Features (using a fist as a reference):
A. Hill
B. Saddle
C. Valley
D. Ridge
E. Depression

6. Minor Terrain Features:
A. Draw
B. Spur
C. Cliff

7. Supplementary Terrain Features:
A. Cut
B. Fill

8. Understanding features found on a map can provide you with “SOS-ES” or:
A. Shape
B. Orientation
C. Size
D. Elevation
E. Slope

9. Terrain examples: 10. Skills you will have to hone:
A. Understanding the difference between:
1) Dead reckoning.
2) And, terrain association.
B. Orienting the map while out in the field.
C. Determining the declination and how that translates between grid north and magnetic north.
D. Triangulation also known as intersection and resection:
1) Intersection is used to find or plot on your map an unknown point on the ground. To do this you will need:
A) At least two known points you can ID on your map.
B) At least two azimuths from those two separate KNOWN locations with “distances” if you can get that but not necessary.
C) Insure the azimuths drawn from the two points are drawn with the proper magnetic to grid azimuth conversion.
D) Where the two points intersect is their location on the map.
E) More than two azimuths will provide even more accuracy.
F) This is a common technique used every fire season. Each lookout tower provides an azimuth to the base of the smoke plume from their location. The azimuths are plotted and the intersecting lines provide a working idea where to send assets to fight the fire.
2) Conversely, resection is a method for determining your location on the map when you are not sure of your exact position on the map (usually not a good time in your trip if you come to a point you need to flex this skill).
A) Look around and try to ID a point on the ground you can find on your map.
B) Shoot an azimuth and plot it on the map using the back azimuth (a reading less than 180, add 180; a reading more than 180, subtract 180).
C) Do not forget to convert magnetic azimuths to grid azimuths.
D) Draw your lines from the plotted points using the reverse azimuth.
E) Where those lines intersect, that is location you use to send coordinates so you can facilitate your rescue.
E. How to measure distances on the map:
1) Straight-line distance
2) Contoured distances (roads, ridges, streams…)
F. Having the discipline to use the odometer in your vehicle.
G. Knowing your pace count and again, being discipline enough to stay the course. For example 62 on clear flat ground, every left foot, with few obstacles verses uneven terrain with varied obstacles from 72 to actually counting down your distances through estimation and map checks.
H. Using one of these two methods to get around obstacles:
1) Contour
2) Box
3) Bypass

11. Understanding how to read a map will help determine “SOS-ES” or:
A. Shape: General form of the terrain feature based on how you read the contour lines.
B. Orientation: Direction terrain features are oriented.
C. Size: How big things are so that you can decide what to go over or around.
D. Elevation: How tall, deep or shallow. If you have an altimeter, it is another way to judge how far along you are on your route when you are doing a lot of gain or loss of elevation along your route.
E. Slope: Easy or slow-go terrain.
F. The above information can help you decide how long it will take to move across certain terrain; whether you need to find another route; or, simply to judge how much sweat and calories you will be expending to get the job done…point A to point B.

The Compass
1. REI’s how to choose a compass: http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/compass.html
A. Basic, advanced and “accessory” compasses:
1) Basic (good) will have bezel ring with graduated markings, sometimes only cardinal directions, but not much more than that.
2) Advance compass (better and best models) comes with things like a mirror, aiming features, magnifier and scales but the biggest features may include a clinometer and declination feature.
3) The “accessory” compass (avoid like the plague) are rudimentary; the type you might find attached to a zipper pull, key fob or a gimmicky “survival knife.”
B. What does this mean to the average navigator?
1) There are several types of compasses. There are even electronic compasses and they all have limitations.
a. Electronic compasses need batteries and on the higher end GPS units are good but they may not be very good for working hand in hand with a map like you can with a base plate compass.
b. All compasses are affected by metal and electrical fields of energy. Although this is true we still used them to “follow along” (compass and map) during an insertion just to double up and insure we were not being dropped in the wrong place. Believe me, it is easier to fly or ride to the right place than it is to correct several kilometers or miles of mistaken location.
c. Storage is also a very big concern. You want to make sure that where you store your compass there are few “demagnetizing” concerns. In your all metal tool box or on top of a stereo speaker with large magnets is not the right place. If the compass is sensitive enough to seek out magnetic north thousands of miles away, believe me, you do not want a compass that will not do that properly because of improper storage (what about the demagnetizer at the store checkout?). I usually hang my compasses from their lanyard in a place away from metal or other magnets so they have “free air” around them.
d. Things to look out for:
(1) Dreaded bubbles in a liquid filled compass.
(2) A compass that has a “locking” needle. Sometimes the locking feature drags on the needle; be sure you have a free rotating needle when taking readings.
(3) An erratic needle due to a degraded bevel rotation point.
(4) Lost calibration. Quick check? Mark a waypoint or find a noteworthy distant point and shoot an azimuth to that point (e.g., Google Earth from your position to a few peaks). Is it within a few degrees? Check several points, does the reading differ by +/- the same degree every time? Something to consider when using that specific compass. We always used a straight edge that was calibrated to a surveyed direction, but who has that luxury? Use a post with several other compasses and see if there are any large discrepancies.

2. How to use a compass:
A. Centerhold: Holding the compass level at waist level you cradle it between your left and right hand as if shooting a handgun from waist using one finger as your pointing finger. This technique allows for the following:
1) Fast and easy.
2) Can be used during all conditions of visibility.
3) Used over all kinds of terrain.
4) Requires you watch that there are no metal objects near the compass as you conduct your azimuth check.
5) Does not require you remove your wire framed glasses.
B. Compass-to-Cheek:
1) Sighting ahead to a distant point allows you to walk to that point without constantly checking your azimuth.
2) This allows you to stay focused on the terrain and your environment and not constantly checking your compass.
3) Turn your whole body in the direction of the desired azimuth. Do not rotate your shoulders.

Putting it all together.

1. You want to get somewhere and with all the pieces they need to come together on paper, on your GPS, in your software and most importantly on the ground. How is that going to happen?

2. My technique:
A. Internet, map and satellite reconnaissance where I check for anything I can find concerning the places and points of interest I plan to visit. For instance, wheeled vs. by foot.
B. Understanding the difference between one source document and another can be complicated and knowing which datum and which “north” is used; imperative.
C. Understanding the contour interval can make or break your trip.
D. Know that the easy route may sometimes be the best route and the best route might be the longer route. Following your GPS can be a huge mistake and this is where your map or downloaded topo can really make a difference.
E. Time and distance. Give yourself plenty of time. Haste and improper planning are the mother of mistake.

3. I plot the traveled surface road using the normal methods like Google Map.

4. I check to see how far I can take that form of plotting and I decide which changes in direction will be a problem. I plot the points in Google Earth and use the following techniques learned over several years of trial and error to decide where my waypoints need to go. Always think in terms of primary and alternate routes; every plan must have contingencies.

5. Then I collect or print the graphics that will best suit travel between the start and finish.
A. Road map or atlas.
B. Topographic maps.
C. Satellite imagery.
D. GPS downloaded graphics.
E. Timeliness of the source documents.

6. Understand how distance and time are all part of a “getting there in one piece” continuum because leaving enough time, food, fuel or other finite pieces of the puzzle may make the difference in some cases between success or a bad outcome.

7. Techniques to use:
A. Handrail linear features whether they be water, land or manmade.
B. Offset on your intended point which gives you a solid understanding which direction your desired point will be; left or right face (?) when you get to the point of direction change or trying to pinpoint your POI.
C. “Box yourself in” by knowing what features bring you close, which features let you know you have gone too far and which features keep you from moving to far left/right.
D. Check your map and understand your position within a mile while driving and within two football fields when traveling by foot.
E. Understand what SOS-ES and what that might mean to you where the rubber meets the road or boots hit the trail.
F. A “panic azimuth” is always a good idea. A direction that brings you out to help whether that is a well traveled road, river or trail. Even if you have a way to communicate, as a ham, you better plan for no-commo.
G. Let others know what you are doing and give them your idea of what you will do if you do not make contact within the prescribed time. This is for those time when what you do on the trail is for keeps.

How to get better at this.

1. Find someone to do this with who is of equal conditioning or even a little less in shape. A fit person with mild patience may become frustrated and fail to let you work while they teach, coach and mentor. You may see that fellow person lead the way because they are no longer engaged with your training.

2. Go short and easy. I used to set my course for objects I found on the map when I got bored of sitting around camp. Manmade objects like mine symbols, springs and buildings that may or may not exist anymore made each event a mini adventure.

3. What you need to train on and what tools are available to you.
A. Study on the internet.
B. Learn to understand how to read a map.
C. Get better with your compass and map by using them.
D. Build on your skills; do not simply go for broke.
E. Learn as you go; understand what you are looking at when out in the wilderness.
4. Understand your limitations:
A. Are you conditioned to be a trail driver/walker;
B. Or, will you explore the path less traveled?
C. Know that there are serious consequences once you make poor choices and that these choices are like pulling a lose string on a sweater; it only gets worse the more you pull the string.
D. Use proven gear. Sometimes the gadgets we depend on are less dependable then we think and it does not take much to fall victim to being one dimensional when it comes to navigation rather than being multi-faceted. Good luck, see you on the trail!

Killer Job Ranger!.
Scouts out!

More training aids NAT GEO Map Skills Book: http://maps.nationalgeographic.com/down ... ooklet.pdf

USGS source:
http://pubs.usgs.gov/fs/2001/0035/
http://education.usgs.gov/lessons/compass.html
http://pubs.usgs.gov/gip/TopographicMapSymbols/

The USGS Map Store (free and purchase): http://store.usgs.gov/b2c_usgs/b2c/star ... x_prd)/.do

Let's put it all together in a practical application.

First let's decide where the trip will take us; by vehicle then dismount and move by foot:

Vehicle:
1. Fawnskin "horseshoe" turn on HWY 38.
2. East on HWY 38 for 2.0 miles and turn north onto Polique CYN RD.
3. Travel north for 4.0 miles to "T" intersection and turn east/right onto Holcomb VAL RD.
4. Another 0.2 miles and you dismount where the dry creek crosses the road and you take up a dismounted mode of travel.
Some things to consider:
1. Start point at green arrow is pretty easy to find...no big issues there.
2. Turning points depicted with yellow arrows may be an issue because they are turning points; although in this scenario, very easy to discern.
3. Red arrow is a CRITICAL point because if you get this wrong the rest of the dismounted movement can become very interesting in a bad way.
4. You really want to get technical you should be thinking thinking in terms of what the terrain will look like as you traverse it.
A. HWY 38 relatively flat.
B. Polique Valley CYN RD will be an uphill route.
C. The right turn onto Holcomb Valley Road will be another relatively flat trip but if you are moving to a creek bed crossing you need to understand that you have to travel downhill and if you start going back up and you have not IDed the creek bed...you are passed your dismount point...right?
5. Google Map or whatever choice you have for this is too easy...right? But, remember, this is not a technical drive so do not underestimate a much harder route.

Let's take a look at some graphics:
1. Topo Map
2. Google Earth satellite imagery
3. Google Map

Dismount portion:
1. A view of the dismount point as you would see it looking in the direction of travel:
2. Let's take another look at graphics:
3. You would have to convert to your actual magnetic azimuth to use on your compass as well as checking to see what the map datum you are using on your map. This map was NAD 27 and according to research negligible difference between the two but go forward understanding that this could be an issue with greater distance and longer legs traveled without correcting features used to navigate to.
Use your graphics to better understand your trip. Do not let your graphics work you!

I have a hybrid approach to working these things out. I have a lot of experience reading maps and contour lines from my desk and the sweat factor it equates to on the ground under heavy load.

1. Take it slow and let your learning curve dictate the level of your adventure.
2. Tell someone where you are going; leave graphics for them to use or hand-off to the search party.
3. Travel with a buddy and have a plan for avoiding navigation errors:
A. Left and right limit...handrail your way to the distant point.
B. Know you distance and azimuth (no good if you don't have a good pace count).
C. Understand that using terrain association and making direction turns a decisive points you can ID on the ground really does keep each leg that much more accurate/forgiving.
D. Box yourself in.
4. Leave yourself an out: What is the best direction to travel to get to safety or help; your panic azimuth usually to a linear point. Did you plan for rest stops and water resupply on that long walk?
5. I am a firm believer of traveling with the right equipment and many would say I travel too heavy, but it keeps me in my comfort zone and that is like money in the bank:
A. Whistle
B. Flashlight or headlamp
C. Signal mirror
D. Day glow orange panel
E. 1st aid
F. "Optional"
6. Plan in depth...what does this graphic do for me?