Outdoor Adventure USA

Firearm Maintenance

Unlike hunting seasons, firearm maintenance knows no season. if you value your firearms and expect them to perform and last, it will be in your best interest to treat them well.

Thankfully, the U.S. market for firearm maintenance products has never been better, and consumers have more high quality choices from which to choose than ever before. AND, the amount of good information on how to properly protect and maintain your firearms is enormous and growing all the time. It will be mentioned on the net, but it is worth a quick preview now - be careful about the information you follow, and with no disrespect to anyone, you should be extra careful on some of the information found on the internet and from countermen at gun stores. Both have been known to be unreliable at times. It's your firearms, for which you paid good money, and the wrong advice can produce bad results. BE CAREFUL!

Proper maintenance starts the day of purchase and continues for the length of ownership, and should include proper cleaning techniques, safe and effective cleaning solutions, handling techniques, storage options, weather protection, long term storage techniques, moisture control, and many more. With all of the products and techniques now available, there are a lot of differing views on what is the best, and in most cases, they are mostly right.

So, for this net, we intend to discuss what we use and like, but we recognize and respect that there are other views. Tell us yours. Pictures and stories are always best. Tune in and join the discussion.

Product Review

Howard Leight by Honeywell Impact Sport Sound Amplification Electronic Shooting Earmuff, Classic Green (R-01526)

Part of Firearm maintenance is upgrading your equipment to bigger, better, faster stuff!
Today you need hearing protection that also allows you to hear normal speech under noisy conditions.

The best entry level electronic ear muff (IMHO) for the price is the Howard Leight Impact Sport. The price (around $50) is low enough to try them. You might never need to upgrade to the PRO.

From their web site

• Built-in directional microphones amplify range commands and other ambient sounds to a safe 82 dB, providing more natural listening and enhanced communication

• Actively listens and automatically shuts off amplification when ambient sound reaches 82 dB;
  • Noise Reduction Rating (NRR): 22
  • Features low profile earcups for firearm stock clearance; adjustable headband for secure fit; compact folding design for convenient storage; cl
    • green color
    • Includes AUX input and 3.5 mm connection cord for MP3 players and scanners. Integrated power/volume knob
    • Includes 2 AAA batteries; automatic shut-off feature after 4 hours increases battery life;
    • approximately 350 hours of battery life; works well and long with Polaroid AAA Batteries
    It is a slim profile and folds up into a small package.

CLEANING FIREARMS

What is one of the biggest enemies of your firearms (besides politicians)?

Hint: Comes from laziness

Answer: Neglect. In this segment, "neglect" involves failure to clean or failure to clean properly.

Shooting is fun. Cleaning is not (usually), but it does not have to be that way. There are a number of ways to make the cleaning process enjoyable, but more on that during the net.

"Proper cleaning" helps to avoid the effects of neglect (some of which are permanent or expensive), assures proper function next time you use the firearm, and protects your investment, among other things. For those who aren't real keen on cleaning, keep in mind that "proper cleaning" can save time, when done "properly."

And, one last caveat. Too much cleaning and improper use of cleaning solutions and tools, can damage firearms. More on the net.

BORE CLEANING SOLUTIONS

In this segment, I will be initially be dealing with bore cleaning. For most shooters now-a-days there are basically two types of fouling - powder residue and copper, and each requires a different a different component (or solution) for removal. Here is where different techniques come into play, many of which are all acceptable. What follows is a personal cleaning approach. My choices are a product of a lot of cleaning, reading what others do and recommend, and my search for a quick and effective means to get the guns clean.

Without doubt, the market has never been better for a great selection of bore cleaners. So much so that it is overwhelming and difficult sometimes to select which is best. The problem is partially solved by the fact that a whole bunch of them are quality products. But, before jumping to the newest and greatest bore cleaners, (which is what they all claim), don't lose sight of the fact that there are a number of these products that have withstood the test of time and which remain as highly effective tools to care for your firearms.

So, here are two products, that I use which are very effective and which save time. Much more on the net.



BORE CLEANING TOOLS

Just as it is important to use the right bore cleaning solutions, it is just as important to use the right bore cleaning tools. With the discussions reserved 'for the net, here are my suggestions.

Bore Brush by J. Dewey (https://deweyrods.com/product/22-calibe ... 40-inches/)


Carbon Fiber Cleaning Rod by Tipton (https://www.btibrands.com/product/delux ... aning-rod/) Available at Battenfeld Technologies inc.



Cleaning Rod Guide by Tipton (https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning- ... 12573.aspx) A well fitting cleaning rod guide is essential to protect the chamber and to properly align the brush for optimum effect. Make sure that the guide has a rubber O-ring so as to prevent the cleaning solution from entering the action.

Warning: keep all solution residue out of the chamber when firing. More on the net.


Aluminum Jags by Dewey (https://deweyrods.com/product/22-calibe ... -threaded/)

Not made from a copper bearing alloy.


LUBRICATION AND PROTECTION

Lubrication

With some exceptions, all moving parts of the fire arm will need to be lubricated, especially where metal moves against metal. As time passes, and the number of rounds fired increases, or conditions warrant, it will be necessary to disassemble different parts of your firearm for cleaning. At this stage, it will be the easiest to introduce lubricants, but whether you do so upon disassembly or when the parts are assembled, there are some tools that will make the job a whole lot easier, especially for those hard to reach spots, like trigger assemblies.

Brownells sells what they call "needle oilers", and these little oil cans can get into the smallest places and deliver a precise amount of lubricant, see: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tool ... 44434.aspx. Brownells says this:

Leakproof, Controlled, Metered Flow

Provides a consistent, small drop of your favorite lubricating oil, cleaner, bore solvent, stock stain or finish. Hollow steel "needle" accurately puts that drop of oil or solvent right where you need it most. Helps prevent over-lubrication, contamination and waste. Made from high density polyethylene plastic; fluorinated to resist breakdown from all common petroleum based solvents and protect any outer label from migration damage. Threaded aluminum top features a heavy-duty, inner, rubber seal and removable slip cap; both seal tightly and prevent leaks.

Protection from moisture, rust, and corrosion

Whether its long or short terms storage, PROTECT those guns!! That means on the inside of the bore, on the outside of the barrel, on the outside of the receiver, the bolt, etc. And, by the way, that includes stainless guns. They may be a bit more resistant to the elements, but they are not immune.

The field of solutions or compounds that offer protection are way too numerous to mention, so I will offer two of my favorites:

Break Free CLP (https://www.safariland.com/products/hol ... 15337.html)


LPS-3 (https://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612)

There are a few tools that will help tremendously with the firearm cleaning process. Here's a few tools that I use and that have served me well.

My Dad was a mechanic and could fix pretty much anything mechanical, and he always seemed to have just the right tool for the job, and when he didn't have the right tool, he'd make a tool to do the job. I learned from Dad that good tools are important, and I use that philosophy when I buy tools today for cleaning firearms, working on vehicles, or jobs around the house. My working motto is "Cry Once, Buy Once" when acquiring tools, meaning a few bucks more up front to get a good tool is usually money well spent.

Screwdrivers
Stripping and cleaning firearms usually requires the removal of screws of all sorts, and using the wrong type of screwdriver can lead to stripped screwhead slots or slips that mar the finish on a fine firearm.

Every gunsmith knows no two screw slots are ever the same. Because so many factories use outside vendors for screws, slot sizes can vary, even within the same model of gun. If you want to be professional about your work, you custom grind each bit to the correct size OR you get yourself a great set of gunsmithing screwdrivers.


Brownells carry’s a vanity branded set of Magna-Tip screwdrivers that covers just about every screw you’re likely to encounter when working on firearms. The Brownells sets come in varying numbers of tips and handles. The best buy on Brownells Magna-Tip screwdrivers is to go with the biggest set.

The Super Set below is the 58-bit configuration, so you’ll always have a screwdriver blade that precisely fits the size and width of virtually any screw slot. You get flat blades in 9 different widths from .120" to .360", each with four to six blade thicknesses from .030" through .070" in .005"or .010" increments. Each 1½" long bit is marked with its blade width and relative thickness number, 3 for thinnest, 4 for next thicker, etc.  Super Sets come with a handle of your choice. I went with two handles, a standard length and a stubby.

Brownells tools are guaranteed for life. I've found Magna-Tip screwdrivers at other places, but never assembled in a package specific to firearms and as complete as the Brownells set.

https://www.brownells.com/


Punches
Using the wrong punch to push out a pin can easily mar the pin or swell the pin to the point that it needs to be replaced. Similar to twisting screws with a proper screwdriver, a good punch is needed to push pins in or out.

First, it is essential to identify the type of pin in your firearm and whether or not the pin is tapered. Roll Pins require a differnt tool than cylindrical or tapered pins, and of course tapered pins need to be pushed out towards the end of the pin with the maximum diameter. There are proper tools for each job.

For general punch use on firearms, I’ve had great results with this compact set of punches that fit easily into my range bag or cleaning kit. This set is available at Brownells and features hi-impact steel handles with knurled grips for easy holding and accurate control. These are built to withstand maximum impact with a minimum of distortion, and that is why I like these. With full brass punches, one needs to spend time caring for each end as the ends mushroom with use, whereas with the steel handles, generally only the brass end needs much care. Interchangeable and replaceable tips are available in: 5/16" Nylon with steel reinforcing pin to prevent bending or breakage while giving completely mar-free punching action; Brass in various diameters for a harder-than-nylon but softer-than-steel impact where slight discoloration is acceptable. Aluminum in two diameters for harder-than-nylon but softer-than-steel impact where slight discoloration is acceptable.

Supplied as: Basic Set with two 5/16" diameter tips (one Nylon, one Brass) and one Handle. 4-Way Set includes four Handles, one 5/16" Nylon Tip; plus one each, 3/16", ¼" and 5/16" diameter Brass Tips. 6-Way Set adds ¼" and 5/16" diameter, Aluminum Tips and 2 more handles to the 4-Way Set. On a dollar-for-dollar basis, the 6-Way set is usually the best buy.


https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tool ... od512.aspx


You don't want to use a flat head punch to push out a roll pin, so if your firearms have roll pins, make sure to use a roll pin punch. The head of a roll pin punch as a dimple on the head that fits into the inside of the roll pin to prevent roll pin deformation while the shoullder of the punch does the pushing.


The set below is also from...you guessed it...Brownells. This is a bench type set. Beware, these are fine punches, but they do require careful use and maintenance. It is normal for brass drifts and punches to mushroom and that mushrooming needs to be removed.


Hammer
A good hammer is needed to help drive punches. I suppose the "proper" way to drive punches is with a brass headed hammer, such as this one from Brownells. The soft brass and nylon heads are supposed to be easier on your tools.


Well, I don't use a brass or nylon headed hammer. My theory is that if I'm trying to move something, I want a solid strike face and that I will control the impact via the forece of my swing.

My hammer of choice of firearm maintenance is a Plumb Ball Peen Hammer that has been passed down from my Grandfather to my Dad and to me. The Plumb Ball Peen Hammer is close if not over 100 years old and it still has the origianal handle, with some of the grease in that handle from work by my grandfather and father. I'm guessing this Plumb Ball Peen Hammer is a 6oz or 8oz model and it works great for firearm maintenance. This hammer is never, ever loaned out, though my son has used it a few times and it will utlitmately end up in his tool box in a few years. The photo below is not my Plumb Ball Peen Hammer, but it should give you the idea of what I'm talking about. They just don't make hammers like this today. Intersting enough, you can find vintage hammers in excellent condition on line for often less than the cost of a current make hammer, and the vintage hammers are of superb quality.

My own biggest fear living in a coastal area is the effect of high humidity on my stored firearms.


Blued versus Stainless
Ferrous metals can oxidize
Bluing is a black oxide (Fe3O4 aka magnetite)
Rust is a red oxide (Fe2O3)

Blued

• Must be oiled to prevent corrosion
• Many consider it more attractive
• Bluing can wear off (e.g., holster wear)
• S&W 29 $999

Stainless

• Almost--but not totally--rustproof due to chromium content
• Wear is less noticeable
• S&W 629 $949

Rust Protection Wipes
Corrosion Inhibitors
COMPREHENSIVE CORROSION TEST: 46 PRODUCTS COMPARED

One of top three
Dehumidifier

STORAGE SOLUTIONS

Gun Safes

The primary purpose of a gun sage is safety - keeping guns from being stolen, keeping guns away from the curious eyes of the kids and guests, and, of course, keeping guns in an environment free of moisture, or at least to a very low level. For the less fortunate gun owners out there who are subject to state or local regulations for storage, then a gun safe may be the best means of compliance. But, regardless of your circumstances, if you own guns, a safe is a great investment.

Way too many out there to mention, so get what you can afford. If I was forced to make a recommendation, I would only suggest buying American. There's a lot of quality out there wearing the "Made in America" label.

I was so intrigued by the name of one safe company, I just had to see what they offered. For the curious, just look at the features and not the price. Quite remarkable. From their website (https://www.ftknox.com/home-safes/):


So, while a safe is a good start to proper maintenance, it is clearly not everything. Keeping the contents of your safe well protected includes a few more steps, specifically, preventing moisture from causing harm, particularly for those in humid and moist areas. In addition to the de-humidifier that Paul mentioned, it's a good idea to make generous use of rechargeable silica gel packs and cans. They're cheap, reusable over and over again, and can give you the edge in capturing stray moisture that will, not can, sneak into the safe. Available from Brownells in several sizes (https://www.brownells.com/search/index. ... &ksubmit=y .) Also see Midsouth (https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/ ... ks-per-bag)


Cleaning Cloths

Everybody checks out their collection every now and then or shows it to close friends. Guess what - the sweat from your hands contains salt and other substances that aren't so good for your firearms. Wiping your guns with the right cloth will protect your valuable collection. Keep one in the safe.

Brownells offers one of the best cloths to remove the rust causing finger prints.


They say this:

Extra-thick, silicone-impregnated, sheepskin cloth cleans and protects your valuable firearms so they’ll stay looking like new. Advanced silicone formula easily removes corrosive fingerprints, dirt, dust, and grime, making it ideal for wiping down your firearms before they go back in the case or on the gun rack. Leaves behind a long-lasting, protective flim for advanced moisture resistance and rust protection. Works on wood, metal, and plastic surfaces. Features a 1" thick, super-soft sheepskin pad with leather backing, plus a flannel cloth to help wipe away any excess silicone. Includes instructions and plastic bag for convenient storage. Rifle Silicon Gun Cloth intended for larger firearms.

Please check in
K9atk brian
K9fog trish
Kd0exi cheyenne
Kd0gpe austin
Thabks

Please check me in.
KN6BOZ Pablo

Air Travel

If you travel by air for a hunting trip 1) you are required to have the firearm in a locked hard case and 2) You want to protect it from damage.

Before you purchase a gun case beware of the oversize baggage requirements for the airlines serving the hunting area.
Measure the length of your firearm and then go shopping.

Oversize baggage for airline travel is anything that exceeds 62 inches and not over 80 inches computes as the sum of Length + width + height.
Items over 80 inches will not be checked.

Pelican Cases
Pelican™ 1750 Case Specifications:
Dimensions Inside: 50.50" x 13.50" x 5.25" (128.2 x 34.3 x 13.3 cm)
Dimensions Outside: 53.00" x 16.00" x 6.12" (134.6 x 40.6 x 15.5 cm)
The 1750 exceeds the 62 number.

Pelican cases are know for their ability to protect firearms. They make several long cases for a rife.
With the exception of the 1700 case they exceed the 62 calculation.

Most major Airlines charge $200 one way for checked luggage that exceeds the 62 number. Southwest charges $75 each way.

An option to avoid the airline fee, if you plan ahead, is to ship your firearm via UPS at a more reasonable fee.

Thanks for early check in, Randy KF6KOC.