Outdoor Adventure USA

Shooting Black Powder Guns

This week we will explore shooting firearms with Black Powder. History records that Black Powder (BP) was invented by the Chinese around the 9th century AD. In fact, until the middle of the 19th century, BP was about the only known propellant and explosive.

The original recipe for BP consisted of three simple ingredients - salt peter, charcoal and sulfur. Over time there was some fine tuning of this recipe (like the kind of wood which was used to create the charcoal ingredient) but it remained much the same as it did in the beginning. While these ingredients remaind the same, the percent of the three constituents in the BP mix. varied amongst the countries that used it for military or other civilian uses. As time passed, BP was also manufactured to optimize its propellant properties for specific uses, including everything from cannons to small bore pistols.

By about 1900, BP had been largely replaced with the more efficient, cleaner and safer propellant known as "smokeless powder," which is the primary firearm propellant today. Although BP has been replaced, it is by no means dead, as it is used extensively for hunting, sport shooting, Civil War recreations, and for the many who like recreating the shooting experiences of the past.

This week Rick Schirmer, KK6CTT, and his guest will discuss Black Powder shooting, and its many attractions.

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Product Spotlight.

Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC Charger Isolated
https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-con ... n-tr-smart

The Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC charger is a professional DC to DC adaptive 3-stage charger with built-in Bluetooth.
Bulk Charge - Absorption Charge - Float Charge

For use in dual battery systems in vehicles or on boats where the (smart) alternator and the start battery are used to charge the service battery. The unit can be monitored and programmed via Bluetooth and can be remotely controlled via a remote on/off switch and has an engine running detection mechanism.

The Orion Tr-Smart charger can be used in 12V or 24V systems and is suitable for both lead acid and lithium batteries. Models are available up to 400W and unlimited multiple units can be connected in parallel to increase output power.

Suitable for high temperatures up to 131°F with a full rated output up to 104°F.

Bluetooth Smart enabled
Any Bluetooth enabled smart phone, tablet or other device can be used to monitor, to change settings
and to update the charger when new software features become available.
Fully programmable
- Battery charge algorithm (configurable) or fixed output.
- Smart alternator compatibility: engine running detection mechanism.
Adaptive 3-stage charge algorithm: bulk – absorption – float
• For lead acid batteries it is important that during shallow discharges the absorption time is kept
short in order to prevent overcharging of the battery. After a deep discharge the absorption time is
automatically increased to make sure that the battery is completely recharged.
• For lithium batteries absorption time is fixed, default 2 hours.
• Alternatively, a fixed output voltage can be chosen.
Suitable for use in vehicles with a smart alternator (Euro 5 and Euro 6 engines)
The built-in engine shutdown detection will stop the converter when the engine is not running.
This prevents unwanted discharge of the starter battery (see manual for details).
Remote on-off
A remote on/off switch or relay contact can be connected to a two-pole connector.
Alternatively, the H terminal (right) of the two-pole connector can be switched to battery plus, or the L
terminal (left) of the two pole connector can be switched to battery minus (or the chassis of a vehicle,
for example).

All models are short circuit proof and can be paralleled to increase output current
An unlimited number of units can be connected in parallel.
High temperature protected
The output current will reduce at high ambient temperature.
IP43 protection
When installed with the screw terminals oriented downwards

Muzzleloading 101 for The Beginner: Focusing on traditional side-lock percussion rifle shooting. We'll try to make it as comprehensive as possible but I am coming at this as a novice and it will help for many to weigh-in and provide both the good, the bad and ugly of collective black powder shooting. We'll cover some of the basics below:

• Gear

• Safety

• History

• Capabilities

• Operator Maintenance

• Open for Q & A outside of side-lock black powder

Gearing up for the sport and some tenets that are good to know and practice that will come in handy throughout the discussion. Here is a suggested list and photo of items it would be nice to have when starting out before you figure out you might want to get more involved or keep this as a "nice to know" skill.

Form of muzzleloader:
o Rifle

• Matchlock

• Side lock in either flintlock or percussion cap

• Inline rifle

o Pistol (see above)
o Revolver (a cylinder that provided up to 6 shots)
o Shotgun (both single and double barrel)

There are some advantages and disadvantages of each style of muzzleloader. Quickly and very succinctly: Traditional flintlock & percussion arms are subject to "ignition" issues and this is something inherent in the way the powder charge for the round is initiated by either flash pan powder or the percussion cap. But they are really very similar to modern smokeless powder firearms in that the main ingredients to get this bullet to move down the barrel come from the ignition source, the powder and the projectile; a concept that continues to this day. Black powder cartridges with relatively low pressures and heavy projectiles kept the manufacturing process less technical and even with the invention of cartridges that housed the primer, powder and projectile in a ready to use boxer primed modern day cartridge, the firearm world did not see the advances we recognize today until the use of smokeless powders.

Starting out with El Feo (Spanish for The Ugly), I purchased the following equipment to get started and it worked out really well so far:

Rifle: El Feo, CVA, side-lock, black powder, percussion rifle, 26" barrel with a 1:48" twist (and owner's manual).


Load (things that go boom; in order of use):
1. Black Powder Substitute; Pyrodex RS (rifle/shotgun powder)
2. Lubed Patches, .015"
3. Round ball, .490, 176 grain for the .50 caliber rifle
4. Primers, #11


Ballistol cleans and removes all types of bore fouling. Cleaning with Ballistol will save you time, minimize the need for brushing, and also form a protective film on your firearm. Due to its slight alkalinity, Ballistol neutralizes and dissolves black powder and corrosive ammo residue. In addition, Ballistol will beautify gunstocks, and prevent them from drying out. As a lubricant, Ballistol will never gum up or harden. With Ballistol, your entire firearm will stay lubricated and protected. To read more, visit their website here: https://ballistol.com/

Miscellaneous but necessary and good to have:
5. Powder flask, powder horn or dipper that dispenses powder
6. Powder measure (with funnel set @ 60 grains)
7. Capper
8. Bullet Starter
9. Ramrod
10. Jag
11. Bore brush
12. Nipple Wrench w/Nipple Pick or "Pricker"
13. Bullet Extractor/Ball Screw
14. Patch Extractor

Miscellaneous that should be considered (will not hinder future sessions but it is something to consider):
* Possibles Bag (the "got everything you need man purse")
* Breach Plug Grease
* Dedicated ramrod
* Patch Cutter
* Funnel (powder to flask/horn and powder from measure to barrel)
* CO2 Discharger


GETTING STARTED
1. Safety First - Verify gun is unloaded
2. Assemble gun. CAUTION: If you sell, trade or give this gun (or kit) to another person, make sure you give the new owner a copy of this manual or advise him to get a copy from CVA.
3. Check all functions
4. Remove nipple
5. Clean barrel
6. Replace and tighten nipple until snug
7. Read and study information booklet
8. Understand terminology
9. Get all questions answered

TEN COMMANDMENTS OF FIREARM SAFETY
1. Keep the gun muzzle pointed in a safe direction
2. Be sure of your target and beyond
3. Never rely on a gun’s safety
4. Gun should be unloaded until ready to use
5. Always wear eye and ear protection
6. The barrel should be clear of obstruction before shooting
7. Handle every gun as if it is loaded
8. Keep guns and ammo separate and in locked storage
9. Avoid alcoholic beverages and drugs before and during using a firearm
10. Do not alter or modify your firearm. Have your firearm checked regularly by a competent gunsmith. Make sure all parts work properly.

SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS UNIQUE TO MUZZLELOADERS
1. Never smoke when shooting or handling a muzzleloader or related equipment. Ashes and/or loose sparks may cause powder or caps to ignite, resulting in personal injury or death
2. Always wear eye protection. Flying debris from the breech area is always a possibility with any muzzleloader.
3. Never pour powder into a muzzleloader directly from a flask, horn or any large volume, enclosed container. Hot embers in the barrel could cause the container to explode
4. All powder storage containers and percussion caps should be kept well away from the area where shooting is to be conducted. Sparks from shooting could cause accidental ignition of these devices. Follow all manufacturers instructions for long term storage of powder and percussion caps.
5. Use only blackpowder, Pyrodex, Pyrodex Pellets (in approved rifles only), or other approved blackpowder substitutes in muzzleloading firearms. Never use modern smokeless powder in a muzzleloader. The use of any amount of smokeless powder in a muzzleloader will create dangerously high pressures upon ignition and may result in severe injury or death to the shooter and/or bystanders.
What not to do (don't try this at home): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUUnDeVXD3M
6. Always check to ensure that your muzzleloader is in good working condition before use. Test the hammer and lock mechanisms carefully prior to loading. Check the barrel for any obstruction as any blockage may cause the gun to explode.
7. Use only recommended loading data for the particular model of rifle in use. Different models have different powder charge and projectile capabilities. Improper loading or overloading of a muzzleloading firearm may result in severe injury or death.
8. Never place a cap on the firearm until you are ready to fire. Cap should always be removed when walking, climbing trees or fences, transferring the gun from one person to another, leaving the gun unattended, etc.
9. Never lean or rest a loaded muzzleloader against a tree, wall, vehicle or other surface. Any fall of the loaded gun may cause accidental discharge resulting in severe injury or death to bystanders.
10. Never transport a loaded muzzleloader in any type of vehicle. A muzzleloader is considered loaded until powder, bullet and percussion cap are removed.
11. Never exchange a loaded muzzleloader with any other person. Only the party who personally loaded or witnessed the loading of the muzzleloader should fire it. This practice will help prevent overloading or doubleloading, which may cause severe injury or death.
12. Never store a loaded muzzleloader. Muzzleloaders should be unloaded and cleaned prior to any storage.
13. Never load a muzzleloader without first making sure that it is unloaded.
14. Exercise extreme caution when hunting from treestands with muzzleloaders. The dropping of a loaded muzzleloader may cause accidental discharge leading to severe injury or death. Be sure the cap is removed whenever raising or lowering the firearm.
15. Never allow the hammer of a muzzleloader to rest against the cap. Any impact to the hammer or bolt could cause accidental discharge.
16. Never rely upon the “half 000” position as a safety. Muzzleloaders should always be handled as if ready to fire, regardless of the safety systems employed
17. Always use proper cleaning procedures. Firing improperly maintained muzzleloaders may lead to unsafe pressure conditions, resulting in severe injury or death
18. Make sure that the projectile is firmly seated against the powder charge. “Short starting” of the projectile may cause the gun to explode.
19. Always keep the muzzle of the gun pointed in a safe direction while loading. Never lean over the muzzle while loading.

SPECIFIC CAUTIONS FOR SAFE USE OF CVA SIDELOCK MUZZLELOADING FIREARMS

• YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR FIREARM SAFETY. As a gun owner, you accept a set of demanding responsibilities. How seriously you take these
  responsibilities can mean the difference between life and death. There is no excuse for careless or abusive handling of any firearm. At all times handle your muzzleloader with intense respect for its firepower and potential danger.

• Seek professional instruction to become familiar with muzzleloading firearms. Qualified organizations such as local gun clubs, the National Rifle Association, the National Muzzleloading Rifle Association, and state hunter education programs offer approved courses which teach safe handling and hunting procedures. Muzzleloading firearms are different in function and safety features from modern firearms. Because of these differences, exercise caution and skill in the use of muzzleloading guns. Read and understand the functions and terminology explained in this book before attempting to use your CVA muzzleloader.

1. When selecting powder loads be sure to use the correct loading data for your particular model. CVA sidelocks are not designed to fire “magnum” loads.
2. Pyrodex Pellets are not recommended for use in CVA Sidelocks. This is due to the fact that #11 and Musket caps do not provide enough fire to consistently ignite the charge
3. Always follow recommended loading data when selecting bullet type and weight. Saboted bullets should not exceed 300 grains and conical lead bullets should never exceed 400 grains.
4. Never use oversized conical bullets in any CVA gun.
5. Never use modern smokeless powder, or any mix of smokeless powder, in CVA rifles. Such improper loading of the rifle may result in the explosion the gun, causing severe injury or death to the shooter and bystanders.
6. Never use “Poly Patch” in any CVA rifle.

Dangerous Muzzleloading Practices: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmsBF6CXs18&t=2s

COMMON MISCONCEPTIONS REGARDING MUZZLELOADERS

• MISCONCEPTION: A MUZZLELOADER IS UNLOADED AFTER THE CAP IS REMOVED. As long as the barrel is loaded with powder and projectile the firearm is loaded and must be treated as a loaded firearm.

• MISCONCEPTION: A MISFIRE WILL NOT FIRE AFTER A MINUTE OR TWO. Misfire is the least understood condition and the leading cause of accidents - mainly because the condition is treated casually. When a misfire occurs keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction until the load has been cleared from the barrel. Potentially dangerous misfires occur when the cap or priming powder ignites, but the main powder charge fails to ignite. Possibilities are (1) a blocked or clogged vent (flash channel or touchhole), (2) a contaminated (wet or oily) main powder charge or (3) no main powder charge. Wait a few minutes, then recap or reprime and try again to shoot out the load. When several attempts fail, remove the projectile by using an approved method described in number 3.

• MISCONCEPTION: PULLING A PROJECTILE IS A SAFE PRACTICE. Pulling a projectile is dangerous when there is a powder charge behind the projectile. Three approved methods to remove a projectile from the barrel are to: (1) Use a CO2 discharger to blow the projectile from the barrel; (2) work a little powder with a vent pick through the flintlock touchhole, or remove the percussion nipple from the drum or bolster and work powder into the flash channel. Replace the nipple, recap or reprime to discharge; or (3) Remove the nipple and place the barrel's breech in eight inches of water to soak (deactivate) the main powder charge for about an hour before pulling the projectile.

For an example of the CO2 discharger: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rc9FDdhynU8

• MISCONCEPTION: BLOW DOWN THE BARREL TO CLEAN OR CLEAR THE VENT AND EXTINGUISH HOT SPARKS OR EMBERS. Blowing down the barrel is hazardous. Keep all parts of the body away from the muzzle at all times. Point the muzzle only at the intended target.

Muzzloading History, the rest of the story... The golden era of hunting the "Dark Continent" with a "Stopping Rifle" and if it bore the name Holland and Holland; all the better.


Black Powder Characteristics:

o Historically speaking, the Chinese have been credited with the discovery of gun powder which appears to be the ingredient of pyrotechnics more commonly referred to as fireworks.
o It is was first used as a firearm propellant In the 13th Century but the exact time/circumstance has not been pinned down.
o However, in 1886 the French first used smokeless powder to power their 8mm Lebel. This was a big advancement in the world of modern firearms.
o Smokeless powder is definitely better in a military environment, there is less flash and less smoke to give away your position. Smaller rounds and better ballistics increased the lethality of the modern firearm.
o The French tried to keep their powder under wraps but the Germans had their own smokeless powder by 1888 and advancements in weaponry took off from there.
o Smokeless powder is about three times more powerful than BP which accounts for the relative differences in how each is used.
o Black powder is extremely easy to ignite and lends itself to the more crude ignition techniques from flintlock to percussion caps. Although the military application of black powder percussion caps were larger and called flanged caps specifically designed to increase ignition success.
o Smokeless powder depends on velocity to get the job done while black powder loads rely on a slow moving comparatively heavy projectile. This is where the 4-Bore ruled the roost in black powder hunting rifles with a light load starting at 325 grains of black powder and a one inch projectile weighing 1750 grains or one-quarter pound. There were 2-bores but the 4-bore was the "practical limit" of mass x velocity = instant ice cream headache...and dead dangerous game animal; also called a "stopping rifle." Muzzle Velocity 1340 FPS = 7000 ft lbs of muzzle energy out of an 18-24 lbs rifle; where, in comparison a 12ga = 2600 ft lbs of ME.

Forgotten Weapons talks the 4-bore line up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDYtxxRU_cY

o Hydroscopic: A big word that simply means it will soak up moisture and the moisture will negatively affect the performance of the powder and potential accuracy.

Range time and loading your muzzleloader.

NOTE: The term "kock" was used because the format of the system changes kock with a "c" into 000 for some odd reason. For example 000 vs. kock.

BLACK POWDER AND PYRODEX (BP substitute) ONLY; NEVER USE MODERN SMOKELESS POWDER IN ANY MUZZLELOADER.
The use of any amount of smokeless powder in a muzzleloader will create dangerously high pressures upon ignition, may result in severe injury or death to the shooter and/or bystanders, and will void the warranty. Only six types of propellant are acceptable for use in CVA muzzleloading sidelocks. The first type is BLACK POWDER (IMPORTANT: The term “black powder” refers to the formulation of the propellant, not the color. Many of the smokeless propellants manufactured for modern cartridges or shotgun shells are also black in color, but will create extremely dangerous pressures in the muzzleloading barrels.

BLACK POWDER CHART SHOWING APPROXIMATE USE OF THE VARIOUS GRANULATION…

• FG (Commonly called Single “F”) The muzzleloading enthusiast finds little use for this very coarse black powder. Its use is pretty much restricted to the large bore (10, 8, 4 gauge) shotguns of yesterday.

• FFG (Commonly called Double “F”) This is a very popular powder for the larger (.45 to .58 caliber rifles). It is also used for 12, 16 and 20 gauge muzzleloading shotguns. While it is not considered a pistol powder, it is sometimes used in very large caliber single shot pistols.

• FFFG (Commonly called Triple “F”) It is used in all percussion revolvers, most single shot pistols, and most of the smaller (under .45 caliber) rifles.

• FFFFG (Commonly called Four “F”) The finest of all currently available black powders, Four “F” is best for priming flintlocks. Due to its limited use, it is sometimes difficult to obtain.

LOADING AND SHOOTING CVA CAPLOCK MUZZLELOADERS
1. Always wear shatterproof shooting glasses and hearing protection when shooting a muzzleloader. Both percussion and flintlock muzzleoaders may shower sparks or bits of caps/flint when fired.
2. Verify the gun is unloaded.

• Place a ramrod down barrel to breech plug and mark ramrod at muzzle.

• Remove ramrod and lay along outside of barrel, lining up mark at muzzle.

• The other end of the ramrod should be at the bolster (or touch hole for flintlock models). This practice will confirm that the gun is unloaded.

3. Set hammer at halfcock and check that firearm cannot be fired (that is, that the hammer cannot be moved) when the trigger is pulled.
“Halfcock” refers to the notch which allows the hammer to rest above the nipple thus preventing the firearm from firing when trigger is pulled.


4. Clean all oil and grease from bore and breech area. (See Cleaning and Maintenance)
5. WITH THE GUN POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION, place a percussion cap on the nipple. CVA percussion muzzleloaders use a #11 sized cap.
CAUTION: Use a capper to place cap on the nipple as percussion caps are sensitive to pressure and can explode under extreme finger pressure.
6. Kock the hammer and fire to dry out base of bore and nipple and blow any debris or obstructions from the nipple through the drum into the barrel. Fully charge the hammer and fire to dry out base of bore and nipple. Repeat this procedure three times [manufacturer's suggestion].
7. With muzzle pointed “up” and with no part of your body extended over the gun, pour a measured charge (Figure 11-1) down the barrel (Figure 11-2).
CAUTION: Do not pour a charge directly from horn or flask. If a smoldering ember is present, it could ignite the powder in the container, as well as the powder charge, as it is poured into the barrel. This excessive amount of powder could cause a dangerous explosion. Therefore, be safety minded; use a powder measure or other small measured charging device.
8. Tap the butt of the rifle lightly on the ground to ensure that all powder drops into the breech area of the gun [or tap your bullet seater on the side of the barrel].
9. Holding the rifle parallel to the ground with the lock side down, slap side of barrel in front of lock. This will help to insure that powder will fully enter the bolster and nipple area, greatly improving ignition of the powder charge.


10. For Patched Round Ball:

• Center a well lubricated patch over bore. (Figure 12-1)

• Press round ball with sprue (or flat portion) facing upward. (Figure 12-1)

• Using the short stud of a ball starter, firmly press patched ball just into muzzle. (Figure 12-2).

11. For Lubricated Conical Bullet:

• Do not use a cloth patch.

• Start the lubricated bullet into the bore with your fingers making sure it is centered.

• Using the short stud of a ball starter, firmly press the bullet just into the muzzle.

12. Use longer end of ball starter to move patched ball or lubricated bullet about six inches down the bore. (Figure 12-3)
13. With ramrod, push ball or bullet down on top of powder firmly, but without crushing the powder. (Figure 12-4)
CAUTION: When using the ramrod, never grab it more than 8 inches above the muzzle. To do so could cause a side stress; break the ramrod; and possibly puncture your
hand.
IMPORTANT: Be sure ball or bullet is seated firmly against powder. No air space should exist between ball and powder.
DANGER: Firing a muzzleloader or "short starting" with the ball or bullet off the powder or part way up the barrel may cause serious damage to the firearm and possible injury to the shooter.
HELPFUL HINT: A good method to determine proper load depth is to insert ramrod when firearm is fully loaded and mark ramrod at the point where it protrudes from the muzzle. This mark should serve as a reference point each time you load. If the mark is above muzzle, you know ball is not
against powder and charge must be removed.
14. WITH GUN POINTED IN SAFE DIRECTION and hammer at half-kock, place a percussion cap on nipple. THE GUN IS NOW LOADED.
15. Pull hammer back to full-kock position and YOU ARE READY TO FIRE.
16. Take aim at the target and pull trigger to fire.
17. After firing, wait one minute to reload. This allows all remaining sparks in barrel to burn out prior to reloading.
18. If a misfire or failure to fire occurs, wait at least one minute with gun pointed at the target.

• Using the ramrod, reseat the ball or bullet on the powder.

• Remove the nipple, place a small charge of fresh powder in bolster through nipple hole. Replace the nipple.

• Install a new percussion cap on the nipple. Be certain of the target and fire.

CAUTION: Wait at least one minute with gun pointed at target if misfire or failure to fire occurs.

• Never attempt to shoot out a projectile which is not firmly seated against powder charge. The ball and powder charge should be removed using a ball puller. (See instructions in Section O on Pulling A Charge).

• Go back to Step 1 and repeat, being sure bore and nipple are free of obstructions and clean.

NOTE: DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE, ALTER OR CHANGE POSITION OF THE PERCUSSION BOLSTER OR BREECH MECHANISM. TO DO SO IS DANGEROUS AND WILL VOID THE WARRANTY.

Point of aim is not point of impact: Windage and elevation corrections.

Specifically, El Feo was shooting about 8" low at 65 yards with a mild powder charge of 60 grains Pyrodex RS, a .490 ball, .15 patch and RWS primers. Why is this important to consider? The range of powder for this load is 50-100 grains of powder and of course you want to be more careful the last 10% of "max load," from 90-100 grains, this will change the POA/POI. The buckhorn rear and leaf front sight can be adjusted by "drifting" left or right but no windage adjustment was made during this session.

Muzzleloading Recovery Operations:

CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE
Blackpowder and Pyrodex are very corrosive. Therefore, careful cleaning of your muzzleloading firearm is extremely important. If left uncleaned for any length of time the fouling will cause rust, pits, and degradation of the metal particularly around threaded areas. The barrel attaching system on most CVA firearms allows for the barrel to be removed for easier cleaning without disassembly. The recommended cleaning procedure for most CVA rifles, pistols, and shotguns follows.


NOTE: Before beginning this procedure make sure gun is unloaded. (See Section L, Step 2).


1. Remove the ramrod.
2. Depending on the model gun you have, tap out the wedge pin in the forearm or remove the screw in the bottom of the stock.
3. Pull the hammer to the full-kock position.


4. Lift the barrel out of the stock and remove the nipple or flash hole liner.
5. Attach a cleaning jag to the ramrod.
6. Place the breech end of the barrel into a pail of hot soapy water and push a wet patch down the muzzle with the ramrod.
7. Pump the rod and patch up and down in the barrel, drawing soapy water into the barrel through the nipple orifice. HELPFUL HINT: The bolster clean out screw on percussion rifles can be removed for easier cleaning. If this is done, be certain that the screw is cleaned separately before being installed (photos would have been taken of this step but it got a little soapy and "involved" so handling the camera with wet soapy hands became a bridge too far).
NOTE: Always use the best fitting screwdriver tip to avoid maring the slot or the rifle finish.
8. Replace cleaning patches as often as needed until barrel is clean of all signs of fouling.


9. When completed, wipe off all excess water and dry barrel thoroughly.
10. Clean fouling on the stock, lock and exterior parts by wiping with an oily cloth.
11. Oil the barrel inside and out well and reassemble the firearm by reversing Steps 1-4. Lightly coat the threads of the nipple and bolster screw or flash hole liner with grease.


PULLING A CHARGE
Under normal conditions a muzzleloading firearm is unloaded simply by firing it into a suitable and safe backstop. There are, however, some conditions under which the firearm cannot be fired and the charge must be pulled.

THE TWO MOST COMMON CONDITIONS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
1. If the ball or bullet is not seated firmly against the powder charge, stop immediately! Do not attempt to fire the rifle or pistol. You must pull the charge and clean the barrel.
2. If the rifle or pistol is loaded in a proper manner yet fails to fire after repeated attempts. NEVER ATTEMPT TO PULL A CHARGE UNTIL THE POWDER HAS BEEN RENDERED INERT (DEACTIVATED).

In review let's go through a few of the topics covered:

• Gear

• Safety

• History

• Capabilities

• Operator Maintenance

• Open for Q & A outside of side-lock black powder

Topics not covered yet but time permitting, open for discussion:

• Is a muzzleloader a firearm?
  Call them a "muzzleloader" or a "gun" but avoid the "firearm" or "weapon" terminology. I was told by a certified NMLRA instructor they once got a letter from the BATF that explained they would be happy to regulate them if they used terms other than muzzleloader or gun. There are some very specific legal issues defining antique firearms that include the way they are controlled. Federal, state and local ordinance overrule any advice or discuss we may have here. Be sure of the rules and regulations in your area.

• Can a muzzloader extend my hunting season?
  Simple answer, yes, but it varies state to state.

• How long can I leave my muzzleloader loaded?
  It is customary to unload after each hunting period not to run past the traditional dawn to dusk time line and especially true if the weather compromises your load whichever comes first.

• Do I have to hunt with lead-free bullets?
  This is where saboted rounds excel otherwise there is a process to get "lead free" certified through the DFW. Bismuth and tin projectiles were the commonly referred to projectiles that satisfied the regulations outside of the standard lead free manufactures. 1:48" or slower is not conducive to using the newer sabot bullets. Check with your ML manufacture before stepping outside the box.

• When is a muzzleloader loaded, safety vs. views of the CA DFW?
  Safety wise, treat all arms as if they are loaded...CA DFW excerpt below:
  (k) Unless provided in these regulations or any other law, it is unlawful to possess a loaded muzzleloading firearm in any vehicle or conveyance or its attachments which is standing on or along or is being driven on or along any public road or highway or other way open to the public.
  
  For the purposes of this section, a muzzleloading firearm shall be deemed to be loaded when it is capped or primed or has an electronic or other ignition device attached and has a powder charge and projectile or shot in the barrel or cylinder. http://www.eregulations.com/california/ ... 20cylinder.

• Which national organization heads up the muzzleloading world?
  The National Muzzleloading Rifle Association or https://www.nmlra.org/

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