Outdoor Adventure USA

OPTICS

Like most of the equipment we use, optics have seen some truly impressive improvements over the last decade, or so. Today, optics include much more than just the scope you use on your trusty deer rifle, including:

• Rifle scopes

• Handgun scopes

• Archery scopes

• Binoculars

• Range finders

• Spotting scopes

• Dot sights

• Night vision sights

And, MORE!!!!

While the fields of optics is broad, this net will focus mainly on firearm scopes, binoculars, and spotting scopes. This topic is huge, and the technical details are extensive, but if you plan on knowing what will be the best fit for your needs (and wallet), you will want to spend some time getting to know these details. This is especially important considering how expensive good optics can be. As always, you need to do your own research. Oh yes, optics are another item where you get just what you pay for.

The quality of optics today are better than ever. For the purposes of the net, I place optics into three categories, and while not particularly scientific, it rather accurately describes things, at least for me. Those categories are:

• good

• very good

• the best

Most people can see and appreciate the difference between “good” and “very good.” When it comes to the very best however, the difference will be less and perhaps more subtle, but observable. There are several reasons for this, and it is largely the result of improvements in glass quality, coatings, scope body construction, etc. If one is working within a reasonable budget, it may not be advisable to start by looking through a pair of Schmidt and Bender binoculars or rifle scopes (very pricey!!!) For most of us, the very good optics will be quite satisfactory, and come VERY close to the high end stuff.

There is one quick note that I should make. If you spend a great deal of time glassing, either with binoculars or spotting scopes, the subtle differences between the very good optics and the very best, may be one area that will resolve in favor of the best. One of the reasons why quality optics are important, is the reduction or elimination of eye strain. In some cases, this strain will be absent in very good optics. With the high dollar stuff, this should not be a problem at all.

The purpose of this net is not necessarily to recommend one optics brand over another, but I will mention brands as part of the discussion. Before you commit to spend hundreds of dollars on any optic, you should compare several different brands first, and then decide which is best for you. Incidentally, in most cases, you should be able to tell into which category your optic falls, simply by a quick glance at the price.

In the field, make the most out of your hunt with the best optics you can afford.

What to look For In Scopes or Binoculars, And Optics Terminology.

For those who wish to dig deeper into the topics discussed here, there is an excellent article at the Optics Planet website which can be found here: https://www.opticsplanet.com/howto/how- ... scope.html

Scopes Generally

Generally speaking, in the "good" category I mentioned earlier, today's optics offer some terrific values. These companies have familiar names and they have built good reputations, built on quality products. In this crowded field of "good" optics, (in the mid-price range) there is a lot of competition, resulting in well built scopes, that are rugged and accurate, and with good clear images. Mechanical failures and fogged lenses are things of the past. And, the good news is, a good quality scope need not require a mortgage on the home to purchase.

To get you to the right optics, here are some terms that will help you make the right choices and get the right options. Much more discussion on the net.

1. Image resolution (clarity, including edge to edge clarity)

Image resolution need not be a subjective feature. At least initially, while in the store, a view through the scope or binoculars can tell a great deal about image quality. Beyond that, once you have made the purchase, there are tests you can use to objectively gauge resolution, as below:


2. Eye Relief

Eye relief is the distance from the scope (or binocular) lens to your eye. Too close and dark shadows appear. Too far away and the image shrinks and appears cropped.

Source : Binoculars Insight


For binoculars, there is usually a range of distance where eye relief is optimum, and some have different positions that can be selected to accommodate eyeglass wearers. Check 'em before you buy.

For shooters, eye relief is particularly important as a safety feature. If the eye relief for the scope sight is too short, which then leaves your eyes too close to the sight, the firearm’s recoil can force the optical eyepiece to hit and cut into the skin around the shooter’s eye. Keeping the scope a safe distance from your eye, can save a lot of grief, sometimes known as “scope bite.” As a general rule, the heavier the recoil, the greater the eye relief should be.


3. Lens Coatings

Lens coatings are almost universally applied to scopes and binoculars as a means of reducing light loss. When done properly, a significant increase in transmitted light can be achieved over non coated optics.)

Most scopes are fogproof and waterproof. Most scopes have coated lenses. The coatings are expensive and vary in type, number, and quality. It is very possible to have a scope with single-coated lenses to greatly outperform a scope with multicoated lenses. It all depends on the quality of the glass and the coatings. Good quality does not come cheap.

The following are accepted terms for coatings:

Coated: A single layer on at least one lens surface.
Fully Coated: A single layer on all air to glass surfaces.
Multicoated: Multiple layers on at least one lens surface.
Fully Multicoated: Multiple layers on all air to glass surfaces.
Coatings reduce glare, and loss of light due to reflection. More coatings normally lead to better light transmission and sharper contrast. Many coatings are also scratch resistant.

Many optics have coatings that prevent water from staying on glass.

Hydrophilic coatings cause water to sheet from glass.

Hydrophobic coatings cause water to bead on glass.

Both work to shed water and allow clearer views in rain or misty conditions.
Source: Optics Planet.

4. Light Transmission Rate


5 Exit Pupil (Source: Nikon)

For those who will follow this net by viewing this post, you will get the most out of the discussion by following this link - https://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/sporto ... sic_05.htm

The exit pupil is the bright circle that can be seen in the center of each eyepiece when you hold the binoculars about a foot away from your eyes with the objective lenses pointed toward a bright light. Light rays must pass through this exit pupil, (or aperture) to exit the optical system and enter your eyes. The larger the exit pupil, then, the more light will be transmitted to your eyes. This is why exit pupil is an important characteristic to consider when choosing hunting optics, especially for use in the poor lighting conditions found at dawn or dusk.

The Exit Pupil


How to calculate your optic's exit pupil: The effective diameter of the objective lens ÷ Magnification

With 8x42 binoculars, the formula is 42 ÷ 8 = 5.3.
Therefore, the diameter of the exit pupil is 5.3mm.

Optics exit pupil compared to human pupil:



A comparison of the difference between 8x20 and 7x50 binoculars in low light shows why exit pupil is important.


6. Parallax

Parallax is a term that has recently been getting a lot more attention as manufacturers continue to upgrade and improve their products. This attention may also be partially the result of the growing interest in long range shooting. Incidentally, it only relates to firearm scopes. Parallax can be simply defined as a noticeable shift in reticle placement on your target while looking through your scope at different angles.

Parallax adjustment dial

More on the net.

7. First Focal Plane vs Second Focal Plane

A rifle scope’s reticle is placed in either the first focal plane (FFP) or the second focal plane (SFP). The main difference between the two options is how the reticle behaves when adjusting the scope’s magnification. A FFP rifle scope has a variable size reticle, while a SFP rifle scope will have a static reticle at all magnifications. There are advantages and disadvantages to either option.


8. Main Tube Diameter - 1 Inch vs. 30 mm

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GREAT topic....with many different preferences, I'm sure. Let it role.

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KK6CTT for the online check-in; 05/12/22: Thank you!

o Good article on Maximum Point Blank Range: https://www.americanhunter.org/content/ ... ank-range/

• This deals with rise and fall of the round based on cartridge ballistics that remains within the "kill shot zone." This is often 3-4" above the center bore-line and below 3-4" of the center bore-line as well. This provides for a "kill shot" from shooter to max distance of around 300 yards if done correctly. This concept can be used to sight-in iron sights as well. There is no need to dial up or down the elevation of the scope within the prescribed distance.

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