- LeeLoader.png (644.44 KiB) Viewed 4747 times
- LeeHandPress.jpg (33.76 KiB) Viewed 4747 times
2022-01-27 OAUSA Reloading Net I & II
Re: 2022-01-27 Reloading Net
Powder Scales, Measures, Tricklers, and Dispensers
One of the most critical aspects of reloading is ensuring that your powder charge is correct. There are 7000 grains per pound. So, the weights are quite small and must be accurate. A light pistol round might require a handful of grains of powder while a heavy rifle round might requires 60, 70 or more grains of powder. Accidentally double a light charge, and you might destroy your firearm ... or yourself.
Different vendors make powders with different burn rates. While we won't get into specific powders, it's important to use the exact powder that a particular cartridge recipe calls for. This chart shows the burn rates of various powders across different vendors.
A typical powder scale which is the type I used 40 years ago is the balance beam type. They are accurate and relatively inexpensive, but--in my opinion--a pain to use.
A digital scale is easier to use and reads out the exact weight. Most can and should be calibrated as they can be affected by environmental differences such as temperature. But wait ... don't run out and buy once just yet.
Individual powders come in different grain (not to be confused with the weight measure) shapes. They can all be weighed. Some have more difficulty in being consistently "thrown" by a powder measure.
A powder measure "throws" charges of powder by volume not weight. It is adjusted using a scale until a consistent weight is thrown with each turn of the handle. Note that your operation of a powder measure must be consistent to result in consistent throws. These are great when loading larger quantities of practice or fun ammo which is not intended for critical use such as benchrest rifle competition and long-range hunting.
Most progressive presses, which are obviously intended for volume production, utilize a powder measure.
A trickler, as the name implies, can be used to trickle tiny amounts of power, almost down to the powder grain (again by powder shape, not the weight). The trickler is used by slowly rotating the handle/dial which has its powder mouth or opening over a scale until the desired weight is achieved.
Some people use a powder measure to specifically throw a lower than desired charge, which may vary due to the inaccuracy of the volume measurement, then use a trickler to bring to charge up to an exact weight.
I avoided getting a digital powder dispenser because they're just damn expensive, maybe $250 to over $500. However, I finally did when an RCBS ChargeMaster Lite went on sale. Love it! It accurately dispenses power to the tenth of a grain, though takes a little while (maybe ten seconds). But I can usually have it dispensing the next powder charge while filling a case with the just-dispensed charge.
These are especially useful when testing new loads and creating a "ladder", that is, a series of cartridges with successively greater charges ranging from minimum to maximum. (BTW, for ladders I mark each cartridge case with the actual load using an Ultra Fine Point Sharpie. The marking stays on well enough while I check for signs of pressure, but comes on during the next wet tumbling.))
I've found two of these Lyman Powder Pals to speed up my powder charging. I dispense into one while emptying the other into a case, then swap. Note that the weights of these are likely to be different, so I attached aluminum tape to the lighter one to make the two weigh the same.
One of the most critical aspects of reloading is ensuring that your powder charge is correct. There are 7000 grains per pound. So, the weights are quite small and must be accurate. A light pistol round might require a handful of grains of powder while a heavy rifle round might requires 60, 70 or more grains of powder. Accidentally double a light charge, and you might destroy your firearm ... or yourself.
Different vendors make powders with different burn rates. While we won't get into specific powders, it's important to use the exact powder that a particular cartridge recipe calls for. This chart shows the burn rates of various powders across different vendors.
- RateChartVendor.png (99.58 KiB) Viewed 4736 times
A typical powder scale which is the type I used 40 years ago is the balance beam type. They are accurate and relatively inexpensive, but--in my opinion--a pain to use.
- PowderScale.png (122.12 KiB) Viewed 4740 times
A digital scale is easier to use and reads out the exact weight. Most can and should be calibrated as they can be affected by environmental differences such as temperature. But wait ... don't run out and buy once just yet.
- DigitalScale.png (93.36 KiB) Viewed 4740 times
Individual powders come in different grain (not to be confused with the weight measure) shapes. They can all be weighed. Some have more difficulty in being consistently "thrown" by a powder measure.
- PowderGrains.png (92.22 KiB) Viewed 4735 times
A powder measure "throws" charges of powder by volume not weight. It is adjusted using a scale until a consistent weight is thrown with each turn of the handle. Note that your operation of a powder measure must be consistent to result in consistent throws. These are great when loading larger quantities of practice or fun ammo which is not intended for critical use such as benchrest rifle competition and long-range hunting.
Most progressive presses, which are obviously intended for volume production, utilize a powder measure.
- PowderMeasure.png (62.69 KiB) Viewed 4740 times
A trickler, as the name implies, can be used to trickle tiny amounts of power, almost down to the powder grain (again by powder shape, not the weight). The trickler is used by slowly rotating the handle/dial which has its powder mouth or opening over a scale until the desired weight is achieved.
Some people use a powder measure to specifically throw a lower than desired charge, which may vary due to the inaccuracy of the volume measurement, then use a trickler to bring to charge up to an exact weight.
- Trickler.png (94.52 KiB) Viewed 4740 times
I avoided getting a digital powder dispenser because they're just damn expensive, maybe $250 to over $500. However, I finally did when an RCBS ChargeMaster Lite went on sale. Love it! It accurately dispenses power to the tenth of a grain, though takes a little while (maybe ten seconds). But I can usually have it dispensing the next powder charge while filling a case with the just-dispensed charge.
These are especially useful when testing new loads and creating a "ladder", that is, a series of cartridges with successively greater charges ranging from minimum to maximum. (BTW, for ladders I mark each cartridge case with the actual load using an Ultra Fine Point Sharpie. The marking stays on well enough while I check for signs of pressure, but comes on during the next wet tumbling.))
- ChargeMaster.png (113.9 KiB) Viewed 4740 times
I've found two of these Lyman Powder Pals to speed up my powder charging. I dispense into one while emptying the other into a case, then swap. Note that the weights of these are likely to be different, so I attached aluminum tape to the lighter one to make the two weigh the same.
- LymanPowderPal.png (126.97 KiB) Viewed 4732 times
Re: 2022-01-27 Reloading Net
Chronographs
Your velocity will always differ from the manuals due to the particular firearm, its action, barrel length, and environmental conditions. Most likely, the velocities in a manual were determined using a test barrel. You may be happy simply that your firearm goes "boom" and puts holes in the targets, in which case you may not care about the actual velocity of your reloads. You can shoot targets at different ranges to assess your load's trajectory.
However, to really understand your reloads, especially when developing ladders, you should determine their velocities. This also useful when determining how consistent a particular load is by recording all of a series of shots and calculating the standard deviation in velocity. If a load's velocities are all over the place, the point of impact--especially at longer ranges--will also. Of course, some people (e.g., myself) just have nerdly fascination with data.
I won't say a chronograph is mandatory for reloading, but it will provide more insight into your loads.
This is a typical chrono graph which detects and times a bullet as it crosses each of the "V"-shaped arms. The difference in time is used to calculate velocity, usually near the muzzle.
This MagnetoSpeed chrono has become popular due to its relatively low cost and ease of use. It measures bullet velocity electromagnetically. It attaches to the underside of the barrel. Unfortunately, it's generally oriented toward use with rifles as it straps to the barrel. I determines velocity near the muzzle.
The LabRadar chrono measures bullet velocity using radar. It is expensive, and can be somewhat finicky, but is great when set up properly.
A great feature of the LabRadar is taking readings at different yardages (which you select), not just at the muzzle like other chronos. I have this usually set up for muzzle (0-), 10-, 25-, 50-, 75-, and 100-yard readings ... all from the same shot. This also allows you to calculate the ballistic coefficient of the bullet under your specific temperature and humidity conditions, then go back using a ballistic calculator and extrapolate to longer distances. This is especially useful in determining a sighting-in yardage and point of impact for which your bullet travel falls within a particular range, such as +/- 2 inches. You can adjust this to achieve the maximum possible range with a specific load.
Luckily, a club I shoot with purchased a LabRadar and allows me to store it
... though I am responsible for bringing it to the range and setting it up when others care to use it. This also gives me an opportunity to find out about others' loads.
Your velocity will always differ from the manuals due to the particular firearm, its action, barrel length, and environmental conditions. Most likely, the velocities in a manual were determined using a test barrel. You may be happy simply that your firearm goes "boom" and puts holes in the targets, in which case you may not care about the actual velocity of your reloads. You can shoot targets at different ranges to assess your load's trajectory.
However, to really understand your reloads, especially when developing ladders, you should determine their velocities. This also useful when determining how consistent a particular load is by recording all of a series of shots and calculating the standard deviation in velocity. If a load's velocities are all over the place, the point of impact--especially at longer ranges--will also. Of course, some people (e.g., myself) just have nerdly fascination with data.
I won't say a chronograph is mandatory for reloading, but it will provide more insight into your loads.
This is a typical chrono graph which detects and times a bullet as it crosses each of the "V"-shaped arms. The difference in time is used to calculate velocity, usually near the muzzle.
- TypicalChrono.png (60.15 KiB) Viewed 4741 times
This MagnetoSpeed chrono has become popular due to its relatively low cost and ease of use. It measures bullet velocity electromagnetically. It attaches to the underside of the barrel. Unfortunately, it's generally oriented toward use with rifles as it straps to the barrel. I determines velocity near the muzzle.
- MagnetoSpeed.png (149.55 KiB) Viewed 4741 times
The LabRadar chrono measures bullet velocity using radar. It is expensive, and can be somewhat finicky, but is great when set up properly.
A great feature of the LabRadar is taking readings at different yardages (which you select), not just at the muzzle like other chronos. I have this usually set up for muzzle (0-), 10-, 25-, 50-, 75-, and 100-yard readings ... all from the same shot. This also allows you to calculate the ballistic coefficient of the bullet under your specific temperature and humidity conditions, then go back using a ballistic calculator and extrapolate to longer distances. This is especially useful in determining a sighting-in yardage and point of impact for which your bullet travel falls within a particular range, such as +/- 2 inches. You can adjust this to achieve the maximum possible range with a specific load.
Luckily, a club I shoot with purchased a LabRadar and allows me to store it
... though I am responsible for bringing it to the range and setting it up when others care to use it. This also gives me an opportunity to find out about others' loads.
- LabRadar.png (89.93 KiB) Viewed 4741 times
Re: 2022-01-27 Reloading Net
Choosing / Developing a Load
Finally after all that ... the interesting and fun part of reloading: load development.
Your load depends on its purpose. First you need to select a bullet for your caliber. For fun shooting, you might stick with lead bullets and low-velocity loads to avoid leading and minimize recoil. For something a bit faster, maybe go to polymer-coated bullets or gas checks. Even faster, copper-plated or copper jacketed. For California hunting, all copper, some kind of hollow point.
There's an incredible variety of weights, shapes, and compositions. Do a little research about what works for your particular application. Cost, speed, capability, legality, maybe even appearance all factor in.
As an example, here is a small selection of ".44" caliber lead bullets copper-jacketed bullets:
Just received this today. Hornady’s bullets and factory loads.
Once you've selected a bullet, things get fairly easy. The bullet manufacturer has likely available information on specific loads that are known to work well. Powder manufacturers have elaborate manuals for their powders. There are great manuals covering many different caliber, bullet, and powder combinations.
Much of this is available free on manufacturers' websites.
Here's a loading example from Lehigh (bullet manufacturer) on their .44 Magnum 220 gr Xtreme Penetrator bullet:
From Western (powder manufacturer) on their powders suitable for .357 Magnum loads.
From Lyman (reloading equipment manufacturer) on .44 Magnum loads.
All of this information details the bullet, primer, powder, range of safe charges, and overall length of the cartridge once the bullet is seated.
Finally after all that ... the interesting and fun part of reloading: load development.
Your load depends on its purpose. First you need to select a bullet for your caliber. For fun shooting, you might stick with lead bullets and low-velocity loads to avoid leading and minimize recoil. For something a bit faster, maybe go to polymer-coated bullets or gas checks. Even faster, copper-plated or copper jacketed. For California hunting, all copper, some kind of hollow point.
There's an incredible variety of weights, shapes, and compositions. Do a little research about what works for your particular application. Cost, speed, capability, legality, maybe even appearance all factor in.
As an example, here is a small selection of ".44" caliber lead bullets copper-jacketed bullets:
- 44Lead.png (137.31 KiB) Viewed 4728 times
- 44Jacketed.jpg (23.74 KiB) Viewed 4728 times
- CF89E78C-03C0-4CDD-8DD1-4D0573E8AED9.jpeg (2.07 MiB) Viewed 4718 times
Once you've selected a bullet, things get fairly easy. The bullet manufacturer has likely available information on specific loads that are known to work well. Powder manufacturers have elaborate manuals for their powders. There are great manuals covering many different caliber, bullet, and powder combinations.
Much of this is available free on manufacturers' websites.
Here's a loading example from Lehigh (bullet manufacturer) on their .44 Magnum 220 gr Xtreme Penetrator bullet:
- 44CE220XP.jpg (307.51 KiB) Viewed 4727 times
- Western357.jpg (568.81 KiB) Viewed 4727 times
- Lyman44.jpg (432.59 KiB) Viewed 4727 times
All of this information details the bullet, primer, powder, range of safe charges, and overall length of the cartridge once the bullet is seated.
Re: 2022-01-27 OAUSA Reloading Net
Some Links
There are many (probably demonetized due to gun content) YouTube videos that provide great information on reloading. Two in particular that I like:
Reloading 101 from RCBS (YouTube)
10 things I wish I knew before I started reloading (YouTube)
There are many (probably demonetized due to gun content) YouTube videos that provide great information on reloading. Two in particular that I like:
Reloading 101 from RCBS (YouTube)
10 things I wish I knew before I started reloading (YouTube)
Re: 2022-01-27 OAUSA Reloading Net
Extras (Future?)
Bullet casting
Storing and labeling cases and cartridges
Firing / range data, collection and use
Headspace measurement
Load adjustment / improvement
Bullet casting
Storing and labeling cases and cartridges
Firing / range data, collection and use
Headspace measurement
Load adjustment / improvement
Re: 2022-01-27 OAUSA Reloading Net
Final Inspection
"Chamber checkers" or "ammo checkers" verify that a finished cartridge can fit into a SAAMI minimum spec chamber. Drop a round in, if it fits easily and is flush with the top of the checker, it should fit. These are particularly useful for semi-automatic rifle rounds. Available for multiple or single cartridges.
"Chamber checkers" or "ammo checkers" verify that a finished cartridge can fit into a SAAMI minimum spec chamber. Drop a round in, if it fits easily and is flush with the top of the checker, it should fit. These are particularly useful for semi-automatic rifle rounds. Available for multiple or single cartridges.
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- AmmoChecker.png (77.46 KiB) Viewed 4725 times
Re: 2022-01-27 OAUSA Reloading Net
Looks like another great net.
Please check in
Randy KF6KOC
Becky KF6RGR
thanks!!!!
Please check in
Randy KF6KOC
Becky KF6RGR
thanks!!!!
Re: 2022-01-27 OAUSA Reloading Net
Please check in -
John - KN6VL
Bruce - KD6GCO
John - KN6VL
Bruce - KD6GCO
Bruce Berger
KD6GCO
'72 Pinzgauer 710M 2.6i
'91 Honda ST1100 199,000miles and counting
(I hope to make it to at least half the places this bike has been)
'04 Tacoma (soon to be for sale)
'07 Moto Guzzi Norge - Corsa Red - The faster color
'21 UBCO 2x2 Electric Adventure Bike
'22 Energica Eva Ribelle Electric Motorcycle
'23 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon with Skinny Guy Camper
KD6GCO
'72 Pinzgauer 710M 2.6i
'91 Honda ST1100 199,000miles and counting
(I hope to make it to at least half the places this bike has been)'04 Tacoma (soon to be for sale)
'07 Moto Guzzi Norge - Corsa Red - The faster color
'21 UBCO 2x2 Electric Adventure Bike
'22 Energica Eva Ribelle Electric Motorcycle
'23 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon with Skinny Guy Camper
Re: 2022-01-27 OAUSA Reloading Net
Please check me in tonight. Thanks 
Geoff
KD6SJP
COLTON, CA
FJ Cruiser
FJ40
KD6SJP
COLTON, CA
FJ Cruiser
FJ40
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