I had a long weekend from work during Thanksgiving 2008. I had two days to kill before Turkey Day and wanted to do some camping. It came to me while eating with my son at the Mc Donald's in Acton. He hadn't been to Death Valley before so I thought would be a good trip, but I wanted to see someplace different.
I have been wanting to do a trip to the Groom Lake area for as long as I can remember. I would stare at maps and websites and read trip reports. I typically spend more time planning my trip. If anything it would be a good recon of the area.
It was 12 noon and I wanted to leave by 4pm so we headed home and started getting my Xterra ready for the trip. I could have taken my Wrangler but I wanted to make decent time and driving that long on 33" tires with a 4" lift would have put me to sleep fast.
With the truck ready to go we headed out towards Las Vegas. The weather was looking cloudy and the forecast was rain. I was worried about flash flooding. I didn't have my typical radio equipment. I hadn't put a mobile radio in the Xterra, so I was using an Icom W32 with an external antenna on the roof. Didn't even get a chance to program the radio for the local freqs but I had my repeater guide. I didn't have my scanners either. I doubt any radio comms out at the "Ranch" are in the open (unencrypted) anyway. I had two GPSrs, a Nuvi 760 with Garmin Topo software and a GPS Map 60CS for backup. The only maps are what I have taken off of http://www.dreamlandresort.com.
We hit Barstow around 2030 and started looking for food and settled for a Del Taco and a burrito. Then it was back on the road. While enroute, your mind starts wandering and you realize all the stuff you forgot to load in the truck. You might have pulled it out and set it aside but it failed to accompany you on your trip. I realized we forgot our breakfast for the next AM and toothbrushes and toothpaste.
We hit Stateline and stopped at Terribles for a piss break and to pick up our breakfast (powdered donuts) and some toothbrushes and toothpaste.
My boy hadn't been through the Vegas strip at night yet, so I took him and we drove by the Janet terminal at McCarran Intl. It was a chance for me to wake up for the long drive still yet to come.
Back on the road, we headed north out of Las Vegas on the 15, towards the Hwy 93. I thought that there would be a gas station at the freeway/highway interchange but there wasn't. I passed the gas station about 7 miles prior and I didn't feel like backtracking. I didn't remember how dark the desert got once you got outside Las Vegas. I then used my Garmin Nuvi 760 to try and locate the next gas station. It was almost 100 miles north of the 15. So I used my best judgement and went for it.
As I drove down the lonely highway, I realized that I only saw maybe three or four cars pass us southbound and one was northbound. I started to second guess myself and my fuel calculations but continued on. The road was very dark. I had no idea what was off the road to left or right. It was THAT dark. I think the cloud cover didn't help either.
We made it to Alamo around midnight and I made one final phone call home to check in. The store was closed but the gas pumps were still on. Fueled up, we headed towards the 375 Extraterrestrial Highway. We passed the first sign proclaiming such and is also the quasi car pool lot for Area 51 workers.
Sign in Alamo (Taken during daylight obviously).
We passed a few signs for free range cattle. I guess they just roam free out in these parts and can be devastating to your vehicle when you hit them.
Our next destination was "Mailbox" Road. Luckily I had my handy dandy landmarks with their coordinates available. Being able to enter them on the Nuvi is simple compared to the Garmin 60cs's rocker switch. It saved me a lot of time.
It was night so it was hard to see anything. I ended up passing the mailbox and saw a vehicle parked at the intersection. I didn't know who was in it and I know people watch for weird aircraft at this spot. It is like the Mecca location for UFO buffs.
I got my bearings and tried to figure out where to camp. It was now past 0100 and there were cattle everywhere. I began to wonder if I was on private land. And just like anytime I go in the desert, I get the feeling of being watched. Once we found a suitable site off the road, we started setting up. I put my truck far enough away from the road that you wouldn't see it if you drove by. We then used our red lens lights and headlamps to set up camp. The desert night was really quiet. Dead quiet. I checked my GPS and we were 21 miles NE of the Area 51 Control Tower.
That quiet would be broken by the civilian airliner passing overhead heading towards the lights of Las Vegas some 80 miles SW of where we were. We then started noticing vehicle traffic on the 375. Large trucks were driving down the road. Unmarked white big rigs heading south. You couldn't help but wonder what was on it. Toilet paper, food, or anti gravity machines?
I then broke out the NVGs (PVS-14)and took a look around to make sure we weren't next to anyone or nobody snuck up on us and went to sleep.
That sleep was interrupted at about 3am by one of the loudest jet noises I have ever heard. It sounded like the sky was being torn apart. It continued for a long time. As much as I wanted to see what it was, I was cozy in my sleeping bag. It was cold out and I wasn't getting out. I then went back to sleep after it passed.
I then woke up several hours later and was able to look around. We were truly in the middle of nowhere. I had a 1000 QSO scheduled with my father on 40m HF. So I went to work setting up the Buddipole and the radio. While trying to connect the Yaesu 897, I realized I forgot the power adapter for the battery. I then took apart the connectors and used the wingnuts to get power. I tuned to the frequency and could hear my dad in the SF Bay Area talking his friends in New Mexico, Los Angeles, and Reno. He was telling them where I was and that I should be on the freq soon. Some of the old timers were saying that I didn't know what I was getting myself into and would get lost. So he assured them that I'm used to these long distance offroad trips. It was good talking to him from a remote location, without the use of repeaters or Echolink.
Yaesu 897D with LDG Auto Tuner and 12volt Marine Battery
We stopped at the Black Mailbox, which is actually painted white. It is said to be the most photographed mailbox in the world! It has become a landmark pretty much. It is made of armored steel because people would shoot it and destroy the owner's mail. The owner is a local rancher with all the cattle. It is locked because people would open his mail thinking it was from outer space. So now there is an alien mailbox below. I'm not sure why its painted white though but I imagine it was black at one point in time. The nickname must have stuck.
We decided to head into town of Rachel for lunch and pick up some intel from the local folk and swag from the store. I made that call to after thinking that if I made my way to any of the gates, they would get my license plates for the local sheriff to detain me in town or something. A little paranoid, I know. Rachel was a bit of drive to get into town and the only cell service that works there is Verizon. Imagine that!
Rachel lies in the background.
The Sign in Rachel
We stopped at the Ale'inn and started looking around. I had seen it so many times before on TV so it was something else to see it in person. Its basically a triple wide trailer. The "motel" are basically mobile homes with a common bathroom.
Note Alien in Window
Independence Day (ID4) Movie Time Capsule
The 5 Star Rooms of the Aleinn.
We made our way inside. Out of respect for the proprietors, I didn't start taking a bunch of pictures inside. So sorry, in advance. When you walk in, there is a bar for adults only and the rest is open seating. The walls are adorned with aviation lore. There were a LOT of photos signed by F-117 and SR-71 pilots/aircrew. There were also a lot of photos of military personnel conducting training. It was almost like a mini-museum.
We sat down to eat and the place was pretty much empty. There were a couple guys at the bar. From eavesdropping on their conversations, one was a retired worker from NAF China Lake and worked on missiles. The other was a local. Our waitress, took our order. I got the Alien Burger and my son got the BLT sandwich. She then asked us where we were from and I told her Lancaster CA near Edwards AFB. She said that I must see strange planes all the time. I just told her about the time the V-22 Osprey overflew us at less than 200 feet at night near Rosamond.
Freddie enjoying his BLT sandwich. The Alien in back looked hungry.
We could hear the sounds of jets outside and she said it was their dogfighting. Sure enough you could see the contrails about 20 thousand feet up. You couldn't make out any airplanes though. She asked where we camped and if we saw anything last night. I was beginning to wonder who is getting intel on who. I did tell her about the noise I heard at 0300 and she said, "Yup, that's when they test 'em."
There was another waitress that came over and talked to us. Nice lady but just proceeded to tell me her whole life story and family woes, and I wasn't interested. Though I appeared to be. Considering there are only 98 people living here, I can imagine it gets lonely.
I dropped about 120 bucks at the store for the kids t-shirts, stickers, Area 51 sand, coffee mugs, books, etc. Figure I'll help keep this place open. Its quite a tourist attraction and considering there aren't any other stores around, it would be a shame if it closed. And there is NO GAS IN RACHEL.
Closed Service Station in Rachel
Nearest Gas
Free Range Cattle
We then made our way to the North Gate to the Nevada Test site. I have read stories of guards harassing or chasing people on this road. We made our way towards that gate and when I saw the guard looking at us with binos through my binos, I decided to get a little closer. He then started walking out towards his truck and I turned around and left back to the 375.
The North Gate to Nevada Test Site
Mailbox Road and GLR (Groom Lake Road)
Looking towards Tikaboo Peak.
We made our way south towards Mailbox Road again. We began heading towards the infamous ungated border. As we neared, I saw the security truck a Chevy 4x4 appear on a hill. As we moved, it moved. As we made the final turn towards border, the truck was really close now. To where I could see the two guards inside. On the hill next to us was a camera with what looked like a WIFI antenna pointing towards the truck. I imagine it covers a blind spot that they can't see.
The Security Camera System on tripod
The Security Dudes in their truck.
The border is marked with orange posts and a sign. There is no Deadly Force sign anymore. The actual gate is about 1/4 to 1/2 mile past this point behind a hill and out of view. I snapped a couple photos and didn't want to piss the guards off. I waved and they flashed their headlights at me.
The infamous border signs.
The Watchful Eyes
We got back in the truck and headed back towards the 375. It was somewhat anti-climatic.
The long road back to the 375. We were going to camp in the mountains in the background.
Looking west towards Groom Lake.
The road is well groomed as it is well travelled by the workers who commute from Alamo NV on the bus. I imagine that there are janitors, plumbers, and other personnel that work there that just maintain the infrastructure. And from what I know from a friend that worked at the North Edwards AFB, they would shut you in a room when they were moving something secret or classified around the building you worked in.
There weren't any other sightseers out there with us. I noticed that my dust cloud was visible for a long distance. I'm sure it makes it easy to spot vehicles in the distance. There is a supposed camera system on Bald Mountain that oversees the whole valley below. Motion sensors and helicopters are also used.
We made our way back to Horney's Rest Stop and up to Powerlines Overlook, which is a good place to watch Red Flag warplanes fly by. It was starting to get cooler and windier. We set up camp and didn't expect to see much. The clouds were rolling in thick. There isn't much to do in the dark except watch movies. So I popped out the portable DVD player and we enjoyed "Enemy of the State". A film I borrowed from Netflix.
Powerlines Overlook
Camp Day 2 at Powerlines Overlook. Alamo NV in background.
Through Night Vision Monocular PVS-14
The lights of Las Vegas 82 miles SW.
We then tried to go to sleep. The wind was really whipping against our tent. It would pitter patter as well. My boy thought it was aliens walking around and couldn't sleep.
I awoke the next morning to the sound of pouring rain and decided it was time to get outta Dodge. I didn't want to get stuck in a flash flood or mud. We were several miles from the road and in the hills.
Pouring Rain
Making Coffee in the rain at Horny's Rest Stop (Java Juice in a Jetboil)
We then headed back towards home via way of Nellis AFB to complete our experience at the Nellis Range Complex. Thanksgiving traffic was in full effect and I was on my last nerve at the Fruit Checkpoint in Barstow. I should have taken the frontage road that was so prominently displayed on my Nuvi. Would have saved me an hour.
Driving in the desert in the rain is bliss.
Thanks for looking. It was a fun trip and I'm going to do a longer one soon... someday.
