OAUSA Net - January 25, 2024 - Travels in Indian Country of the South West

[DaveK]

Travels in Indian Country of the South West

The American Southwest is one of the most scenic areas of the world, and made even more fascinating by virtue of the rich history of it’s past. One of the many things I enjoy about our adventures is the spectacular scenery, but that's just a (very) good start. There is so much more to enjoy when you take the time to understand the area, including its geology, it’s unique features, and the people who inhabited, used, or traveled through it.

The net will feature the places where I have traveled, its beauty, some history, and my overall impressions of what I have discovered, all with an emphasis on what I call, “Indian Country.” In order to gain a full appreciation of these travels however, I can’t overlook a discussion of the preparations necessary to make the most of the time I have for our trips. Make no mistake, trip preparation is critical for a successful trip. And, also make no mistake, traveling with good friends, good chefs, competent off road drivers, and friends with a sense of adventure (and humor), is a critical component to a successful trip.

In the United States the largest Indian Reservation, and the most populous, is the Navajo Nation, consisting of about 27,413 square miles, mostly in Arizona, with parts in New Mexico and Utah. It is no surprise then that most of my travels have been on Navajo land, but, of course, there are others.

One net will not be enough to cover all the places I have visited in the South West, so I will only mention a few. Even so, with as many places as I intend to cover, I hold out the possibility of an additional session. Regardless, with a little luck I will do my best to cover the following areas:

1. Canyon de Chelly
2. Monument Valley
3. Navajo National Monument
4. Beef Basin
5. Dry Mesa
6. Cedar Mesa
7. Red Rock Valley
8. The East Mojave Desert

The one thing that most who visit these areas experience is the recognition that many return trips become necessary, due largely to the vastness of the American South West. While weekend trips are sometimes necessary (work schedules, family, etc) so much more can be appreciated when a week or more can be devoted to exploring.

And, speaking of exploring, I have found that it is one of the best ways to discover hidden treasures. So, I start off with two examples of the rewards of exploring.


HIDDEN FINDS

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YIKES

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[traveltoad]

Good topic.

[DaveK]

1. NAVAJO NATIONAL MONUIMENT

There are three sets of ruins at the Navajo National Monument - Betatakin, the Inscription House and Keet Seel. Inscription House is closed to the public due to its advanced state of deterioration and unsafe condition. Betatakin and Keet Seel however, are spectacularly well preserved and both open to the public. Both are located in a deep canyon and require a significant hike. In terms of very well preserved, extensive ruins, the Navajo National Monument is truly exceptional, and these factors were one of the reasons why the area is now a National Monument.

BETATAKIN

The following is from the Park Service brochure:

Betatakin
Ancestral Puebloans lived here from about 1250 to 1300. Their agricultural fields were on the canyons’ rims and floors. For living space,
the people chose this alcove: It was deep enough for shelter and, because it faced south, was warmed by the winter sun and cool in summer shade. Because the rock layer below the Navajo sandstone was less porous, water seeped out here, another benefit. At its height, 75 to 100 people lived here in clan or family groups. They didn’t spend much time indoors; most activities took place in open courtyards or agricultural fields. Archeologists have documented 135 rooms, some now destroyed by rockfall. Rooms were used for food storage, living, and ceremonies.

The trip to Betatakin is a guided 5 mile hike with a moderate descent. While the return trip to the visitor center is mostly up hill, there is no time limit on your return.

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Discussion topics:

• Current tour conditions

• Hiking requirements

• Comparison to Keet Seel

KEET SEEL

Keet Seel was definitely a very different site. I waited many years before this trip became possible, mostly due to difficulty in finding hiking companions willing to tackle the trip.

More info in the net on the prep for the trip.

The following is from the Park service brochure:

“Keet Seel is the largest village at Navajo National Monument and one of the best preserved in the Southwest. It was occupied much longer than Betatakin. Tree-ring dating and pottery fragments show that people settled here by 950. Those early houses are gone, but a few timbers and some stones were reused in the village you can see today. In 1272 building activity surged at Keet Seel and new pottery styles emerged. There were as many as 150 people living here before the settlement fell into decline and families began to leave. Those who remained converted the abandoned rooms into granaries, maybe storing food against hard times.

By 1300, they finally departed altogether, but not before sealing the entryways of many rooms containing pottery jars filled with corn. Were they planning to come back someday? In 1895 amateur explorer Richard Wetherill brought Keet Seel to the attention of the outside world, along with its wealth of pottery, stone tools, animal bones, religious items, and other artifacts. Many of these treasures are now in museums. Thanks to the archeological community, Keet Seel received federal protection as a national monument in 1909.”

The hike to Keet Seel is an 18 mile round trip and requires a 1,000 foot descent into the canyon. Going down wasn’t bad. Unlike Betatakin, we were allowed to see a great deal of the ruins at Keet Seel, up-close. The craftsmanship, the architecture and the state of preservation were stunning. There were 25 rooms that apparently were living quarters with at least as many adjoining rooms that were apparently for (food) storage and 4 separate Kivas (a ceremonial religious chamber).

One of the more important gear considerations for this hike will be your boots. The trail to Keet Seel involves several stream crossings, and for the last few miles or so, the stream is the trail. These were facts known to us before the trip, and one of us prepared well with high top, waterproof boots. One of us had dry feet for the entire hike. One didn't, and his jumping skills worked well, but just for a while.

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Here is what the Park Service says of the trail to Keet Seel:

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The Hike and the Treasure

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For those familiar with Navajo culture, you are probably aware of the the traditional dwelling, known as a Hogan. We were surprised to find a rather large and new-looking Hogan, near Keet Seel, especially since there are no roads to the site. It was clearly a more modern version of a Hogan, complete with a gas cooking oven, refrigerator, a Ben Franklin style stove, solar panels and a communication radio. The mystery was solved when we learned that the park service dropped a Hogan kit (their description) from a helicopter onto the site for use as the park headquarters for Keet Seel. Quite spectacular.

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Discussion topics:

• How located

• Not guided

• Gear discussion - "boots"

• David Stuart

• Anasazi defined

• Anazazi America

[DaveK]

These two trip were connected, both by physical proximity to one another, and from a planning stage. The close proximity made for a quick trip to a new area, but it was the planning part of this trip that turned out to be a challenge. More on the net, but I will only mention that it was the quick and considerate action of the Navajo authorities that made for a real positive difference.

CANYON DE CHELLY

This trip to Canyon de Chelly (Chelly pronounced "shay") was not my first, but as with so many of my trips, the first visit served to pique my interest in the area as well as highlighting the "must see" things for subsequent visits. More on the net about the planning aspect of this trip, but here are some of the highlights.

The Canyon and Camp

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No Longer Permitted

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Evening Music

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Pictographs and Petroglyphs

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Lodging

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The Travelers and Their Rigs

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RED VALLEY

Red Valley is not well known, and as a result there were NO crowds. The valley is also quite large, and other than the road to the small local Tribal council building, there were no others. In fact, there are no established foot trails to any of the various ruins in the valley or to any other part of the valley. The ruins we visited offered a spectacular opportunity to view the remaining evidence of past habitation. Our hikes covered the better part of the entire valley, giving us a greater appreciation of this land, and an opportunity to see things that the overwhelming majority of people never see. Our two days in Red Valley involved a 16 mile hike the first day and a 20 mile hike the second. For the hikers, appetites were considerable both days.

Here is what it looked like.


The Guides and Hikers

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Arch

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The Rest

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[DaveK]

MONUMENT VALLEY

Monument Valley is most well known (to non-Navajo) not by its name but by its iconic scenery. The location has been used for countless movies (both westerns and non westerns), product advertisements, and as a depiction of South Western America (among many others.) While I'm no expert on the images which are most associated with the Navajo Nation, I'll bet that Monument Valley is among the top contenders. And, for good reason.

If you have traveled on the usual routes in the Navajo Nation, you will have probably passed Monument Valley. For those who have stopped to visit this area and taken any of the numerous commercial tours of the Valley, you have only seen a tiny portion of what the area has to offer. Here's why. The Navajo Nation aggressively protects it’s archeological sites and artifacts and makes certain that they remain unaltered and undamaged. A great deal of our trip was made possible by the generous permission by the Navajo Nation allowing us to visit and experience some of the finest archeological sites and artifacts (sometimes referred to as Anasazi) in the Southwest. The most important ingredient to appreciating these sites were our guides. They were able to give us a cultural and historic perspective that brought these sites to life and helped us to understand what we were seeing.

In pursuit of the need to protect archeological sites and artifacts, the Navajo Nation only allows us to travel on main roads. In order to see more, we are required to hire Navajo guides, and in certain cases, obtain the permission of the Navajo agencies tasked with the responsibility of issuing permits. It is with the guidance of our guides and the permits we were issued, that we were able to experience so much more.

The reason for my previous reference to the "commercial tours" of Monument Valley, was merely to highlight the fact that the tours are very limited to that which is actually in the Valley, per se. But, the fact is that the Valley is surrounded and near so much more that helps define the Navajo Nation, and we were privileged to experience it.

Many of the sites we visited had no names, while some did. The exception was Poncho House, which required a 5 mile hike. Our guide for Monument Valley was Carlos from Simpson’s Trailhandler Tours, and if it were possible, we would ask for Carlos for every future trip to Monument Valley.

Our Guides and part of our group. Carlos is on the far right, and to his immediate right, in the red jacket, is Harold Simpson, owner of the tour service.

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A large portion of our trip to Indian Country was well beyond cell phone range. With no internet that would allow us to send pictures back home, the only means to send pictures was Airmail, (HF email, through Winlink.) Here is just two shots I sent back, which were immediately posted on our website.


Picture of Monument Valley, near sunset of a roaming horse and her foal.

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While we were in Monument Valley, we had just about every kind of weather, including rain, snow, wind, sand storms, and sunshine, but it seemed like just the perfect weather for the trip. One note of interest concerns the day of sandstorms. At several points during the day, the sand was so thick that it hid the usual landmarks that our guide customarily used to navigate around the Valley. The problem was solved as the vehicle in which he was a passenger (one of our OAUSA member's vehicle) had a computer running a mapping program that showed all the trails in the Valley. and Carlos' eyes were glued to the screen in order to get us around.

Topics or discussion:

Planning
Guides

MONUMENT VALLEY

Windy Sand Storm

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Rain

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Snow

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Sunny

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General

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Petroglyphs

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Cliff Dwellings

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Poncho House

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Hunts Mesa

Hunts Mesa offers one of the most spectacular views of Monument Valley. The story of our trip to the Mesa - on the net.

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[DaveK]

WATER HOLES CANYON

Water Holes Canyon is located in the Glen Canyon National Recreation area and specifically, on the Navajo Nation land. See: http://www.summitpost.org/waterholes-canyon/716826 . Waterholes is a slot canyon very similar to Antelope Canyon but without the crowds. There are essentially, 2 different levels of difficulty, the easiest being the most scenic and spectacular. The other level requires some form of canyoneering (rapelling) skills and the equipment to go along with the skills.

We selected the easier level. The Navajo have established a great tour, which is about 2 miles in length, and requiring about 2+ hours to complete. Our tour had about 10 people and we were allowed to spend as much time as it took to soak it all up and take pictures. By comparison, as we passed the Antelope Canyon area, there were literally hundreds and hundreds of people, and parking lots filled with cars. Bottom line: Water Holes = a good choice.

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ANZA BORREGO DESERT REGION

The Anza Borrego Desert Region is huge, consisting of over a million acres, covering much of San Diego County, and parts of Riverside and Imperial counties. Many parts of the area are desert, as the name implies, but the highest peaks in the park are covered in pine. The remarkable diversity of plant life, animal life, climate, and terrain, all combine today to make this land desirable and suitable for human habitation, and such was indeed the case for many hundreds in years in the past.

Over several centuries there have been numerous Indian cultures that inhabited what is now the AB region, and its surrounding areas. Unlike the early pueblo Indians of the 4 corners area, the past inhabitants of this region did not build the type of (more) permanent villages, such as the cliff dwellings of Keet Seel, and evidence of the Anza Borrego dwellings is largely gone today. This does not mean that other evidence of their occupation does not exist. In fact, quite the opposite is the case, for those willing to seek it out.

The evidence of the many Indian cultures that once inhabited this area consists of petroglyphs, pictographs, morteros, pottery (shards), caves, and more. Given the vastness of the region, the opportunities to discover the evidence of ancient cultures is immense, but the time allowed for this net is not. So, I will only discuss one of the largest Indian camps in this region. For the adventurous explorer looking to find more, there is an outstanding guide to the entire region that will open the door to countless other finds The book is written by Lowell and Diana Lindsay and is entitled “The Anza Borrego Desert Region.” If any of this piques your interest, this book is a must.

The book has undergone several editions over the years, and the most current of which is the 6th, and available here:
https://sunbeltpublications.com/shop/an ... h-edition/. I have earlier editions, and I integrate them into the information in the more up to date editions. A deal at $22.00.

The book (Source: https://sunbeltpublications.com/shop/an ... h-edition/)

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If you only have the opportunity to explore one area, the one I recommend is Harper Flat, located within the Anza Borrego Desert State Park, and described by the Lindsays in terrific detail (including directions.) They say this:

Harper Flat was the site of one of the largest Indian camps in the Anza Borrego area. Bedrock morteros and metates, shards, flaking, and rough hand tools testify to the heavy use it had years ago. A complex of Indian trails radiates from the area. Harper Flat has an abundance of vegetation typical of a desert area of this elevation (2600 feet average elevation) - Mojave yucca, nolina, ocotillo, agave, desert willow, California juniper, desert lavender, indigo and cassia.

There are also cupule petroglyphs, pock marked rocks, with the pocks resembling little holes, with diameters up to three inches. They are considered one of the oldest styles of petroglyphs. What makes these in Harper Flat unusual is that there is a definite pattern to them. The holes are in a straight line with several holes in a ball at the end of the line.

Any roads that once led into the Flat are now closed, and in order to get to it, a hike of about 2 miles is required. Follow the directions in the Lindsay book for a rewarding find that most people will never see.

Entrance to Harper Flat Valley

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Harper Flat Valley

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Morteros

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[DaveK]

BEEF BASIN, DRY MESA AND CEDAR MESA

These areas are contiguous and for all practical purposes are one and the same. For those who may travel to visit, you will need the names to locate them. None of these areas are within the Navajo Nation, but the inhabitants who once lived there are essentially the same. These inhabitants were once part of a society that saw magnificent achievements and influence. From an anthropologists view point, there is one resource that curious minds should examine. It is work by David E. Stuart entitled, "Anasazi America", and it is both a fascinating historical account of the early history of the South West and its inhabitants, and a guide to areas to explore for the adventurous travelers seeking to know more. The books nearly 250 pages were mostly an excellent account of the author's interpretation of history, and it is recommended reading.

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The hub of this society was located in the general 4 corners area as well as the land surrounding it. Today this hub is referred to as Chaco Canyon, and extensive evidence of their existence is still visible today, and available for exploration. In fact, in both size and development, their culture occupied over 40,000 square miles, and rivaled the largest European cities of that time.

The areas comprising Dry Mesa, Beef Basin, and cedar Mesa are quite large and were heavily used by Indians from about 800 AD to about 1300 AD. The evidence of their habitation is extensive and to be discovered, but only by the observant explorer willing to take the time to find these treasures. In a few cases, there are locations that have been identified by the park services, and are easy to find.

Here are pictures of just a few sites in these areas

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PETROGLYPHS IN THE EASTERN MOJAVE DESERT

The California East Mojave Desert is mostly known these days due to the existence of the Mojave Preserve. While it is true that the Preserve includes many of the most scenic parts of this desert, it, by no means, has it all. Contained within the greater East Mojave Desert are archeological sites and remnants of past inhabitants, Including Indians, settlors, miners, religious travelers, military posts, and yes, even some bandits. Since Indian inhabitants are our focus, these peoples have left evidence of their existence in this desert, and for those who know where to look, there is a lot.

Petroglyphs are a means of writing or creating images on rock surfaces by actually removing a small portion of the surface, thus exposing a lighter layer underneath. Pictographs are paintings, usually on rock surfaces. These writings or images were a way for ancient peoples to leave behind a permanent record not only of their existence, but possibly also a way to leave messages or a history of events at the time of their creation. Unfortunately, in many cases, we are left to speculate regarding the meaning. In other cases, especially with regard to images that correspond with historically verified events, no speculation is necessary. A good case in point are petroglyphs (or pictographs) of mounted Spanish soldiers who were actually in the Canyon de Chelly. The historically verified event occurred on a winter day in 1805 when a Spanish military expedition fought an all-day battle with a group of Navajo people fortified in a rock shelter in Canyon del Muerto (meaning "The Canyon of Death".). The petroglyphs or pictographs, made at or near that time look like this:

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But, I digress. Since this post is about the East Mojave Desert and its petroglyphs, I have found that they are in many locations. As mentioned in my first post, the explorer will be rewarded with finds, when looking for them. There is no shortage, when one looks in the right places:

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[Diesel4x]

Good evening everyone.

Please check in Randy KF6KOC and Becky KF6RGR

thanks!

[lrsrngr]

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There is an awakening; individuals who are exploring their options with respect to self-protection and self-defense. Besides safety, proper training making legal, ethical and moral decisions, one is also faced with which platform to choose, to include where it is made. Below is a list of "Made in USA" firearms to consider (https://backfire.tv/list-of-gun-manufac ... n-the-usa/)

• Armalite: Armalite is based in Arizona, where it manufactures its firearms. Armalite is owned by Strategic Armory Corp. Most “AR” style firearms are not produced by Armalite.

• Barrett: Barrett manufactures its firearms in the USA. It is headquartered in Murfreesboro, Tennessee.

• Bear Creek Arsenal: Bear Creek Arsenal is headquartered in Sanford, North Carolina where it manufactures all of its firearms.

• Bushmaster: All Bushmaster firearms are made in the USA. It is headquartered in Carson City, Nevada.

• Christensen: All Christensen Firearms are made in the USA. Its headquarters and manufacturing facility is in Gunnison, Utah.

• Cooper: Cooper rifles are made in Montana.

• Daniel Defense: Desert Tech is headquartered in Utah and their products are made in the USA

• Faxon: Faxon is headquartered in Ohio and produces full firearms, components, and is a popular OEM for several other firearms companies.

• Fierce: Starting in 2021, Fierce moved all manufacturing to its facility in Redmond, Utah.

• Henry: Henry firearms are made in the USA. After all, their tagline is “Made in the USA, or not at all.”

• Heritage: Heritage Firearms is owned by Taurus, which has facilities in the USA and Brazil; however, all Heritage products are made in the USA.

• Hi-Point: All Hi-Point firearms are made in Ohio and Michigan. The Hi-Point headquarters is in Mansfield, Ohio.

• Horizon Firearms: Horizon Firearms are all made in Texas. They own Stiller Actions which has a factory in Texas, as well as Iota stocks which are made in the same facility as the full firearms made by Horizon.

• Kahr: The company headquarters is in Greeley, Pennsylvania and their manufacturing facility is in Worcester, Massachusetts.

• Kalashnikov: All Kalashnikov firearms are now made in the USA. While the company has Russian roots, it now operates in Florida where it produces all of the company’s guns.

• Kel-Tec: All Kel-Tec firearms are made in the USA. The company is headquartered in Florida.

• Kimber: Kimber firearms are made in Troy, Alabama. The company was previously headquartered in New York, but moved its headquarters due to New York’s gun laws.

• Marlin: Marlin firearms are made in the USA. Marlin is owned by Ruger, which is also a USA company.

• Palmetto State Armory (PSA): PSA manufactures firearms in Columbia, South Carolina.

• Rem Arms (Remington): Rem Arms is headquartered and does all of its manufacturing in LaGrange, Georgia.

• Ruger: All Ruger firearms are made in the USA. It has facilities in Arizona, North Carolina, New Hampshire, and Connecticut. Ruger owns Marlin.

• Seekins Precision: Seekins Precision manufactures its firearms in Lewiston, Idaho.

• Shadow Systems: All of Shadow Systems’ firearms are made in Plano, Texas and all their parts are machined in-house.

• Sig Sauer: All Sig Sauer firearms are made in the USA. The company was founded in Switzerland and had ties to Germany early on, but for decades now, all firearms have been made in the USA.

• Smith & Wesson: All Smith and Wesson firearms are made in the USA.

• Springfield Armory: All Springfield Armory firearms today are made in the USA, except for the XD and Hellcat lines of pistols which are made in a Springfield-owned facility in Croatia. Their 1911 models had frames and slides manufactured in Brazil until 2010, but now they are all made in the USA. The company is headquartered in Geneseo, Illinois.

• Thompson: Thompson Center is owned by Smith & Wesson. The brand is mostly defunct.

• Vudoo: Vudoo has an office in St. George, Utah where they design and manufacture all of their rifles. The CEO of Vudoo, Paul Parrot, is a US Army veteran.

• Weatherby: Weatherby rifles are manufactured both in the United States and in Japan. The Mark V line is all manufactured in the USA, but the Vanguard line is made in Japan. Weatherby is headquartered in Sheridan, Wyoming.

• Wilson Combat: Wilson Combat is headquartered in Berryville, Arkansas.

This is not an all-inclusive list but it does cover most of the big names. There are several names on the list that are NOT the company they once were, some are better and some are less than the iconic company they used to be. Do your own research, your mileage may vary.

[Geoff]

Please check me in tonight.